rolex 2 tone yacht master

Oyster Perpetual

Yacht-Master

Staying on course, mapping invisible routes.

For those at sea, staying on course is a constant challenge. When dealing with the elements, nothing is certain and constant reaction is required to stay in the right direction. Since its launch in 1992, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master has been equipped with a bidirectional rotatable bezel that facilitates the calculation and reading of navigational time. Elegantly combining functionality and nautical style, this watch has made its mark well beyond its professional realm.

A shared quest for precision

Knowing where you are in space and time, setting a course and sticking to it are vital in navigation. Given its function, the watch is an essential tool for sailors to assess their position. Regarded as the most precise horological instruments in the world, marine chronometers have been certified by astronomical observatories since the 18th century. At the time, the ultimate authority for measuring chronometric precision was the Kew Observatory in Great Britain.

In 1914, the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had one of the brand’s watches tested by this very observatory, which certified it as a chronometer: a first in the watchmaking world for a wristwatch. Since then, renowned sailors, such as Sir Francis Chichester and Bernard Moitessier, have navigated the seas with Rolex wristwatches serving as onboard chronometers.

Matching the precision of marine chronometers was fundamental to Rolex’s watchmaking.

Designed for navigators

Sailing occupies a special place in the world of Rolex. In 1958, the brand partnered the New York Yacht Club, creator of the legendary America’s Cup. Rolex then formed partnerships with several prestigious yacht clubs around the world and became associated with major nautical events – offshore races and coastal regattas.

These strong ties culminated in 1992 with the launch of the Yacht-Master. Boasting the robustness and waterproofness of our Oyster case, this chronometer is fitted with a bidirectional bezel with raised 60-minute graduations to enable navigational time to be calculated and read.

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Precious on land and at sea

Available in three diameters – 37, 40 and 42 mm – and in various precious versions – 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold – as well as in Everose Rolesor and Rolesium versions, the Yacht-Master is unique in the world of Rolex professional watches. An elegant watch with a sporty character, it was the first to be paired with an Oysterflex bracelet in 2015.

In 2023, after testing under real-life conditions by acclaimed helmsman Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex launched a new version of the Yacht-Master 42. It is made of RLX titanium, a high-performance material, at once light, robust and corrosion resistant.

A veritable ally at sea, the Yacht-Master also elegantly adorns the wrists of navigators once back on solid ground. With many different versions, it is a model that transcends its seafaring origins. It has become a watch for those who know how to change course without losing sight of the horizon, moving freely.

Yacht-Master 42

Oyster, 42 mm, yellow gold.

Hands-On Rolex Yacht-Master II Review

So, I got a YachtMaster II. But hear me out… It was an insanely, and undeserved gift (“the company you keep”, right?). This got me to thinking about a lot of Rolexes offerings , and brought me around to the idea that the Yacht-Master II, no matter how niche a complication, no matter how specific, no matter how big, no matter how ridiculous - Might be one of my favorite models - And I’m not just saying that because I didn’t actually make the purchase.

Let me clear the elephant in the room. That’s the “You’re just saying you like the watch because it was free” statement that is absolutely BOUND to shroud my DM’s after this goes live. And that’s fine, I expect it, I welcome it, and I recognize the privilege that I’m projecting here. However, I would like to clear the air on where this review is going to come from - I have had plenty, and I mean PLENTY of opportunity to buy, sell, handle, photograph, and write about Rolex in the past decade. While I have on occasion, I’ve never particularly found Rolex to be a terribly interesting brand to review. Incremental changes over decades and decades tend to run together, and very few of those changes are worth lengthy, wrist-time in order to trump the (literal) thousands of reviews on the internet already - So I’ve mostly passed up on writing any kind of in-depth article or review on the brand. I’ve always felt that was better left for the Rolex boys, who are probably more qualified than myself to write about them anyway.

That is, until I have been wearing this particular model for a decent period of time. I started to notice that so many of the Rolex Yacht-Master II reviews on the internet, have often come from people who are attempting to sell you the watch. With the exception of a few “Hands On” articles floating around, I have had a very difficult time finding an open and honest review of this particular watch from someone who has actually owned one, and has worn it for a significant portion of time. So that is what I’m going to attempt to do here. This is going to be a wordy, however, comprehensive review of the Rolex Yacht-Master II (Ref 116680) - Arguably the most polarizing modern watch Rolex has produced.

If you’ve been around Rolex circles for any serious amount of time, you’ll likely have heard that the Yacht-Master II is simply too large of a watch for Rolex to have made - And to be fair, it’s very big by Rolex standards. The watch is the only Rolex produced that measures in at 44mm with a significant 14mm thickness and is made of 904L Stainless Steel. So to the more introverted Rolex collector, this is probably not the watch for them. While this model is definitely heavy, I have never once felt this watch to be uncomfortable or a nuisance on the wrist.

I have seen a number of comments that the Yacht-Master II is too bulky and heavy, however I do not feel that is the case. In fact, my Omega Planet Ocean is only 42mm x 15.7mm, and feels much bulkier and heavier than the Yacht-Master II.

The case is alternating with polished and satin-finished and features a nautical blue ceramic bezel. The pushers are, as is Rolex’s MO, a perfect length. Even though I’m left handed, and therefore wear my watch on my right wrist, I had no issues with the pushers digging into my wrist, or catching on my sleeves. The rounded and tapered case, although thick, cleanly buffers between the oversized bezel and any sleeve you wish to pull over it. I live in Tampa FL, so I am always tucking it away under a sleeve… cause… I don’t want to get robbed in a parking lot.

The pushers are easy to use, cause it’s Rolex, and of course they are. The triple-lock crown screws down easy and fits tight against the case, so I never feel like there is any risk in the water - Even though the watch carries a 100m water resistance rating.

The bezel is often criticized for it’s ostentatious nature. I mean, there is no doubt what watch is on your wrist with the huge, bold, and easily seen “YACHT-MASTER II” etched into the bezel itself. The bezel function works with the movement (which we will get to in a minute), as it turns 90 degrees in order to program the indicators (which we’ll also get to). The matte finish with crescent grippers makes the bezel easy to use, and readily available when needed.

This is the ref. 116680, which means there were some moderate adjustments made to the dial by Rolex over the previous er… 116680 (Rolex opted not to change the reference number). Personally, I find them to be minimal, and unless you’re insanely familiar with the Yacht-Master II line of watches, will likely be largely unnoticed, but I feel it important to discuss anyway.

For starters, the indicators are not simply square all the way around the dial anymore. Instead of every indicator remaining the same shape and angle, the 12 o’ clock indice was changed to an elongated triangle to easily dictate the top of the watch. Additionally, the 6 o’clock indicator was changed to an elongated rectangle, again, to easily dictate it’s location. Is this likely to be a deal-breaker for Regatta enthusiasts when looking to time 60 second intervals with a flyback function? Probably not. But it does make the dial a lot more legible, and I suppose, a certain percentage more useful.

Additionally, the other major changes were too the handset. Instead of the heat treated blued handset of prior models, the 116680 features skeletonized hands with lumed tips and an added “mercedes” hour hand. This allows for the wearer to see the Regatta timer lap ring with minimal interruption - Although, I think the blue handset would have helped - The polished hands can get lost against the slick white dial in certain light. Lesser changes include some thickening of lines, a bit darker tint of blue, and some added lume.

Overall, the dial is exactly what you’d expect from Rolex. It’s superbly legible, displays the utility of the movement well, and is innately “Rolex”. The updates definitely add to the legibility, even when using the lap timer, however, I’ve never known a Rolex to really struggle in that department to begin with.

THE MOVEMENT:

Inside the Yacht-Master II is the Rolex Calibre 4161. The movement is formidable, and the functions make sense for the extremely specific times a captain would need to use it. Essentially, the “chronograph” functions as a 10 minute countdown sectioned off in “laps”. When activated, the movement counts the ten lap starting sequence of a regatta race.

Interestingly, because of the internal memory, the movement can be programmed for any position within the 1-10 sequence for even more precise timing. This can be done by rotating the “Command bezel” 90 degrees and pressing the start / stop pusher to adjust the position. Interestingly, Rolex boasts that it’s one of the first watches in the world to utilize a bezel in conjunction to the movement.

The 360+ part Calibre 4161 beats at 28,800 VpH, features a 72-hour power reserve, and Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring for better anti-magnetism.

THE BRACELET:

The watch comes on an Oystersteel bracelet with a pretty unique clasp feature that allows for the adjustment of the links to 5mm - or a half link. This was super handy for my wrist, because the watch sat just a hair too lose, but taking out a third link would cause the watch to flop around more than I’d like. Admittedly, I hadn’t had much experience with this feature, but learned on the fly how easy it was to use. Where the bracelet connects to the clasp, there is a little fold half link. You can either pull up and flip it back down to set it in place, or pull slightly back to release it. This either shortens, or lengthens the link. This is great for hot days when your wrist swells. And the added ability to do it quick, on the fly, and without tools was a huge bonus to the watches utility.

Obviously, there isn’t much improving on the Oyster bracelet. It’s insanely comfortable, it flexes perfectly when it needs to, it’s clasp is solid and doesn’t buckle (no pun intended) and it’s fit to the lugs is perfect for the watch.

The Yacht-Master II is very top-heavy, so it’s important for the bracelet to manage that efficiently, and this is Rolex we’re talking about, so it does. Are there times that swelling and moisture, and dirt / sand affect the comfort? Sure, but there’s nothing the bracelet can do to fix that.

CONCLUSION:

While, admittedly loud, I found myself leaning into the oversized and exaggerated nature of the watch more and more. Is it massive and recognizable? Yes. Obviously. Does it take away from the watch at all? No. I feel it compliments it. Rolex as a whole has a difficult time being identified without, it becoming your entire identity - If that makes any sense, and the Yacht-Master II case is one of the few (in my opinion) Rolex watches that comes with it’s own personality - even if that personality tends to get lumped in with the loud and obnoxiously rich people that tend to strive to own it.

As my first Rolex, I recognize that it’s not exactly the normal “First” for the brand, but I’ve grown to love the watch. In fact, I think it’s a staple in my collection. It’s hefty and legitimately feels like a sports watch worth wearing, and still classic and toned down enough to be a dinner watch. I don’t have much to fault the watch with that isn’t built into the foundations of what the watch is to begin with. I feel and criticism I could really throw at it would be met with “Yeah, we know, that’s the point”, and that just feels… well, pointless.

How much is the Rolex Yacht-Master II?

If you can find one at retail, you’re looking at a price tag of $18,700 USD but is going for around $24,000 to $29,000 on the secondary market.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

In the exclusive world of luxury timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master II stands as an example of opulence and precision engineering. Since its unveiling in 2007, it has not simply followed the footsteps of its prized predecessor but has charted a new course in luxury timepieces. This masterpiece blends the functional demands of regatta timing with the uncompromising quality synonymous with the Rolex name. Its signature feature, a programmable countdown with on-the-fly synchronization, showcases Rolex’s commitment to innovation, tailored specifically for the strategic demands of yacht racing.

As we look into its history, features, and most sought-after models, this guide is designed for those who appreciate the finer things in life. Whether you’re looking to invest in a luxury timepiece or expand an existing collection, the Rolex Yacht-Master II represents a pinnacle of horological craftsmanship, a tangible asset that surpasses time and trends. Read on to learn all there is to know about the Rolex Yacht-Master II. <> <>

A Brief History of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master II , introduced in 2007, marked a significant evolution in Rolex’s line of luxury watches, diverging from the brand’s typically conservative design ethos. It was a striking departure from its predecessor, the Yacht-Master, representing a bold new direction in both aesthetics and functionality.

The original models of the Yacht-Master II were the 18k yellow gold ref 116688 and the even more luxurious 18k white gold version with a platinum bezel, ref 116689. These models showcased a large, eye-catching design that was an immediate topic of debate among watch enthusiasts. While some admired its noticeable presence, others viewed it as a deviation from Rolex’s traditional design roots.

Responding to the changing economic landscape following the 2008 financial crash, Rolex expanded the Yacht-Master II collection in 2011 with the introduction of the ref. 116681, a more affordable Everose Rolesor model. This model featured a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links combined with an Everose gold winding crown, pushers, and central bracelet links. The collection further broadened its appeal in 2013 with the introduction of the all-steel version, ref. 116680, which also debuted a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only notable design update since its launch occurred in 2017, on the watch’s tenth anniversary. This update included changes to the hour markers and hands, namely the blue hour marker surrounds replaced with white gold, the 12 o’clock marker changed to an inverted triangle, and a taller marker at 6 o’clock. These changes aligned the Yacht-Master II more closely with the rest of Rolex’s Professional Collection, yet the changes were subtle enough that Rolex did not assign a new reference number.

Throughout its history, the Rolex Yacht-Master II has been distinguished by its unique regatta timer function, a testament to Rolex’s commitment to innovative and functional design. This feature, along with its distinctive aesthetic, has made the Yacht-Master II a popular, though somewhat polarizing, model among collectors and luxury watch enthusiasts.

Key Features of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master II stands out from the Rolex catalog with its massive round case and striking dial design. Here are the distinguishing features of the Rolex Yacht-Master II. <>

The Oyster Case at 44mm

The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster case measures a notable 44mm in diameter, contributing to the watch’s bold aesthetic and enhancing the dial’s legibility. This large size is practical for a sports watch, ensuring that crucial timekeeping information is always easily readable. <>

Ring Command System

One of the Yacht-Master II’s innovative features is the Ring Command System. This system integrates the bezel, crown, and internal mechanism, providing a seamless way to set and synchronize the watch’s various functions, including its unique regatta timer.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II allows the wearer to choose a countdown interval, ranging from one to ten minutes, using its programmable flyback regatta timer, displayed on the middle of the dial. Additionally, the watch can be synchronized “on the fly” with audible cues that are commonly given at the start of regatta races. <>

Cerachrom Insert Bezel (for steel, Rolesor, and yellow gold models)

For the steel, steel and Everose, and yellow gold models, the bezel features a blue Cerachrom insert, made from an exceptionally hard and virtually scratchproof ceramic. This material is impervious to UV rays and corrosion, ensuring the bezel’s color and finish remain pristine over time. <>

Platinum Bezel in sandblasted finish (for white gold model)

Meanwhile, the 18k white gold model boasts of a platinum Ring Command Bezel, with a sandblasted background and polished graduations. <>

Chromalight Display

The Chromalight display on the Yacht-Master II offers superior legibility in all lighting conditions, especially in the dark. This innovative feature ensures that the watch face is easily readable, which is vital during demanding activities like sailing. <>

Perpetual Caliber 4160 / 4161

At the core of the Yacht-Master II is the Perpetual Caliber 4160, and for later models the 4161, a self-winding mechanical movement developed entirely by Rolex. Known for its precision and reliability, these movements showcase of Rolex’s expertise in watchmaking, featuring a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, crucial for timing in regattas.

Models from 2007 to 2013 use the Caliber 4160. In 2013, with the introduction of the stainless steel model, the Caliber 4161 was given additional refinements such as a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. Both movements possess the blue Parachrom hairspring that protects the movement from shocks and offer 72 hours of power reserve.

<> Models of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

There are four models available for the Rolex Yacht-Master II, three of which remain in production as of 2024. The white gold ref. 116689 was discontinued in 2022 but remains available in the pre-owned market.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel Blue Bezel 116680

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel Blue Bezel 116680, introduced at Baselworld 2013, is a standout in the Yacht-Master II collection. This model features a large 44mm stainless steel case, showcasing Rolex’s expertise in crafting durable and stylish sports watches.

Its most striking feature is the blue Cerachrom bezel, a testament to Rolex’s innovation in materials, known for its scratch resistance and color permanence. The watch is equipped with the Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer movement, emphasizing its utility for sailing and regattas.

Its aesthetic is bold and extroverted, with a white dial, contrasting deep blue hands, and a red countdown hand, all contributing to its nautical theme. This model manages to balance Rolex’s high standards of functionality with a distinctive, eye-catching design​​. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681, introduced in 2011, is a striking addition to the Yacht-Master II collection. It features a unique blend of robust 904L stainless steel and luxurious 18k Everose gold, embodying both resilience and elegance.

This model stands out with its vibrant blue Cerachrom bezel and a white dial – both enhanced with Everose gold elements. The watch is equipped with the advanced Rolex Cal. 4161 movement, offering specialized functionalities like a programmable countdown timer with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization, tailored for yacht racing.

The combination of two-tone metals, along with its functional complexity and sizeable 44mm case, makes the Yacht-Master II 116681 a notable and luxurious sports watch. This model has garnered attention for its blend of technical prowess and bold aesthetic appeal. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688, launched in 2007, is a landmark in Rolex’s esteemed collection. As the pioneering model of the Yacht-Master II series, this timepiece redefined the luxury sports watch segment.

It boasts a substantial 44mm case crafted from luxurious yellow gold, exuding both elegance and strength. The watch is notable for its blue Cerachrom bezel, a material celebrated for its exceptional scratch resistance and enduring color.

Inside, it initially housed the Rolex 4160 movement, renowned for its precise regatta timer function, pivotal for yacht racing enthusiasts. In 2013, Rolex introduced an upgrade to the 4161 movement, further enhancing the watch’s performance.

The Yacht-Master II 116688 blends luxurious gold craftsmanship with functional, sports-oriented features, establishing it as a prized and distinct offering in Rolex’s portfolio. This model’s combination of opulence and utility captures the essence of Rolex’s innovation in luxury sports watch design. <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master II White Gold Platinum Bezel 116689

The Rolex Yacht-Master II reference 116689, introduced in 2007, is a distinctive model in Rolex’s lineup, combining 18k white gold with a platinum bezel. This watch stands out for its substantial 44mm case size, making it one of Rolex’s largest offerings.

Notably, the 116689 was part of the initial Yacht-Master II launch, which marked Rolex’s venture into more complex watch designs. This model features a regatta countdown timer, which was a significant technical achievement for Rolex.

The innovative Ring Command Bezel, directly linked to the watch’s internal movement, enables easy setting of the countdown timer. Inside, the watch initially used the Caliber 4160, which was updated to the Caliber 4161 in 2013.

The ref 116689’s unique combination of luxury materials, substantial size, and advanced functionality make it a noteworthy and potentially future classic Rolex model​​.

<> Final Thoughts

The Rolex Yacht-Master II series, with its unique blend of luxury, precision, and specialized functionality, offers a remarkable range of choices for collectors and enthusiasts. Whether it’s the bold statement of the Yellow Gold 116688, the innovative design of the Stainless Steel and Everose Gold 116681, or the understated elegance of the White Gold Platinum Bezel 116689, each model holds a special place in Rolex’s illustrious lineup. These watches are not only timekeeping instruments but also symbols of a luxurious lifestyle and a passion for the maritime world.

For those seeking to acquire or learn more about these exquisite timepieces, SwissWatchExpo presents an ideal destination. Their expertise and collection cater to a discerning clientele, making them a valuable resource for anyone looking to invest in a Rolex Yacht-Master II or expand their luxury watch collection.

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Hands-On The Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta Timer, Ref. 116680

The rolex yacht-master ii: for those who consider themselves rolex enthusiasts, it's one of the most polarizing watches the crown produces. and yet there is more – much more – to this relative behemoth than meets the eye. we wanted to see what would happen if we met this technically unique, programmable flyback yacht timer chronograph on its own terms – read on to join us in our journey into one of the most idiosyncratically styled and mechanically sophisticated rolexes ever made..

I’m going to be completely honest: I was thoroughly prepared to have a negative reaction to this watch. Let’s face it; it’s a head-scratcher for the average Rolex/Submariner/GMT Master/Day-Date lover. First of all it’s pretty damned big. This is a 44 mm watch; it was born a 44 mm watch and it’ll die a 44 mm watch and that is nothing you or anybody else can do about it. You can have it in four different metals, and therefore, weights, ranging from steel (heavy) to gold/steel (heavier) to solid yellow gold (even heavier) to  platinum and white gold combined (Schwarzeneggerian). It has a Cerachrom bezel in an absolutely screaming shade of blue, and it says YACHT-MASTER in giant letters right across the bottom third or so just to remove any lingering shade of doubt in the minds of any small-craft skipper for leagues around that they are in the presence of, well, the Master of a Yacht; it is not an introverted watch by any stretch of the imagination.

On top of everything else, the Yacht-Master II has a complication that pretty much no watch guy or gal ever can remember what do with, or has a perceived need for: it is a regatta timer, which is about as niche a complication as you can imagine. If you get a bunch of watch nuts together there is an excellent chance that you can get a more lucid explanation out of somebody for the Equation of Time than you can for a regatta timer (which is saying something) and it says something about the relative obscurity of the complication in general, and the relative niche-ness of the Yacht-Master II in particular, that when we got it into the office we had five people who live and breathe watches sitting around scratching our heads because no one could quite remember how the darned thing works. You put all those things together and you should have a watch that a dyed-in-the-wool horological classicist should thoroughly disdain. Right?

Actually, wrong. But let’s back up a bit.

First of all this is technically a very interesting watch and it’s worth your attention just on the level of interesting horological problem solving alone. A regatta timer is used by the skipper of a yacht to determine when their vessel is allowed to cross the starting line. Sailboats can’t just hover at the starting line of a yacht race, so what happens is that the racing committee establishes a countdown period during which the boats have to tack back and forth at the starting line without actually crossing; if you cross early, there is a penalty and if you are too cautious and cross late you will probably cross the finish line behind the boats that made it over the start line ahead of you. The countdown can be anywhere from five to ten minutes depending on the rules and race.

The Yacht-Master II is a programmable, flyback regatta timer that allows you to select a countdown interval of anything from one to ten minutes; in addition if you have started the countdown early or late, you can synchronize your watch “on the fly” when you hear the second of the two audible signals which are usually given at the start of a race (the signal to start the countdown comes first, and is usually followed by a warning signal closer to the start). Here’s how it works.

To set the countdown timer, you turn the bezel (Rolex calls it the "Command Bezel") a quarter turn to the left. This locks the lower chrono pusher and engages the setting mechanism for the triangular red countdown hand. You then unscrew the crown to its first position, and set the countdown hand – setting is one-way only but at 10 minutes, if you continue to turn the crown, the countdown hand will fly back to 1 and you can continue until you reach the desired number of minutes. When you’re done, you screw the crown back down, and turn the bezel back to its starting position, and you’re ready to regatta.

When the first gun (or other audible signal) is heard, you start the countdown . . . and that’s it. Now a really neat trick here is that you may, for some reason, have started your countdown too early, or too late. If that’s the case, all you have to do is wait for the second gun/signal, and hit the re-set button – the seconds hand will fly back to the zero mark and begin running again immediately; and the minute countdown hand will fly back to the nearest minute and likewise start counting down again. It’s the fact that the flyback is to the nearest minute, not to zero, that allows you to re-synch your countdown with the official countdown time, that gives the Yacht-Master II much of its utility, and much of its technical interest.

Okay, sure it’s technically interesting – but what about the aesthetics? All I can tell you is that, much to my very pleasant surprise, it was colossally fun to wear in every sense of the word. The fact that it is so unapologetically extroverted is actually the secret to its appeal.  The weight isn't a problem (at least, not for me, and not in steel) and I found I could wear it all day without discomfort despite the overall size – partly thanks to the downward curvature of the lugs, which ensured a comfortable fit on my 7 inch wrist.  The sharply contrasting deep blued hands, white dial, and red countdown hand – and, yes, that bright blue bezel – give the whole watch a suitably jaunty, nautical feel and make it a pleasure to look at (and at night visibility is very good; the lume on the hands and dial is almost startlingly bright).

Yes, this is an extroverted watch, but the quality of execution is very clean and very high (as is usually the case with Rolex) and it’s so much the opposite of what I’d ordinarily wear that having it on gave a feeling almost like a Walter Mitty fantasy coming to life. I felt like a guy who’s worn a blue suit and rep tie and driven a four door Merc his whole life, who somehow one day finds himself in a pair of ripped jeans and a beat up flight jacket, cruising down some winding secondary road on an old shovelhead Harley, and suddenly catches himself thinking, My god, all the wasted years. Ultimately I started to feel that objecting to the over-the-top-ness  of the Yacht-Master II was silly, even narcissistic – if you go into a Joss Whedon actioner expecting a Lars Von Trier art-house tearjerker to unspool, you probably have only yourself to blame.

It is a rationally appealing uitlitarian tool watch? I'm not the one to ask. There is no way for me to evaluate what someone who actually owns a ’36 Herreshoff classic yacht and takes it on the regatta circuit would actually think of the Yacht-Master II, or whether they would find it useful. But I can tell you that it is actually a ton of fun to wear, and a big part of the reason is the very thing many object to at first – that this is a watch that pulls no punches when it comes to being larger than life.

It has that one most essential element for something to be a successful style exercise: the courage of its convictions, and if you think of yourself resolutely as a smaller-than-forty millimeter, tasteful restraint kinda guy, get one on your wrist for a surprisingly refreshing change of pace, and you can feel larger than life too.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 as shown, $18,750, 44 mm diameter case in 904L stainless steel. Bidirectional rotatable "Command Bezel" with blue Cerachrom insert; water resistance 100 meters/10 bar.

Movement, Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer with mechanical memory and "on-the-fly" synchronization; Parachrom blue antimagnetic balance spring.  

Bracelet, Oyster, flat three piece links with Oysterlock safety clasp.

More info, of course, on Rolex.com .

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The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

• Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

• Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
• Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

• Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

• Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

Browse Bob’s Watches Rolex Catalogue

The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

• Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
• Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial,  and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

• History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
• Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
• How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
• Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
• Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

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The Rolex Yacht-Master II, Four Ways

Perhaps one of Rolex’s most polarizing models to date, the Yacht-Master II is big, brash, and mechanically complex. There are those that love them and those that argue that the Yacht-Master II is the most un-Rolex of all Rolex watches. However, for those that do appreciate the modern size and design of the Rolex Yacht-Master II, there are plenty of versions to choose from. In fact, the Yacht-Master II is a Rolex collection that includes  all the metals used by the brand–stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, and platinum. Let’s have a look at the four versions of the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Stainless Steel Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680

The most robust and affordable of the collection is, of course, the full stainless steel Yacht-Master II ref. 116680 . Sporting a 44 mm Oyster Case, the Yacht-Master II is one of Rolex’s largest watches (only the Deepsea is bigger thanks to its thickness) and it comes equipped with an Oyster bracelet.

Contrasting with the cool tones of the steel case and bracelet is the Yacht-Master II ref. 116680’s vibrant blue Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which matches the blue details on the information-packed dial. The Yacht-Master II offers a very niche complication targeted towards competitive sailors. Thanks to the Caliber 4161, the Yacht-Master flaunts a regatta chronograph complete with a mechanical memory (up to 10 mins).

Two-Tone Rolex Yacht-Master II 116681

If you’re a fan of two-tone Rolex sports watches, then there’s the stainless steel and gold Yacht-Master II ref. 116681. However, rather than using the more classic yellow gold, the Yacht-Master ref. 116681 pairs Everose gold with steel. Everose is Rolex’s patented rose gold alloy that the brand debut in 2005. Fashioned from a proprietary formula, Everose not only offers a beautiful luster but it promises to not fade over time.

On the Yacht-Master II ref. 116681, the Everose details are plentiful from the winding crown to the chronograph pushers to the center links on the Oyster bracelet to the bezel. The bezel insert is the same bright blue Cerachrom one, this time featuring Everose gold filled numerals. The dial also includes Everose gold touches, such as the Everose gold surrounds on the hour markers and the running seconds subdial.

Yellow Gold Rolex Yacht-Master II 116688

You’d be hardpressed to find a luxury watch company that makes a better solid gold watch than Rolex . And the yellow gold Yacht-Master II ref. 116688 is no exception. Built almost entirely in 18k yellow gold–except for that signature blue Cerachrom ceramic bezel–the Yacht-Master II 116688 is a status watch that commands attention wherever it goes.

In fact, due to its look, size, heft, and price tag, the yellow gold Yacht-Master II ref. 116688 is a favorite watch of celebrities and professional athletes. We’ve spotted actor Mark Wahlberg, MMA fighter Conor McGregor, rapper Drake, and other wearing the solid gold Rolex Yacht-Master II.

White Gold and Platinum Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689

For an ultra-luxurious take on the professional sailing watch, there’s the Yacht-Master II ref. 116689 which brings together two precious metals . The 44 mm Oyster case and hefty Oyster bracelet are crafted in 18k white gold while the bezel is made from platinum rather than ceramic.

Similar to the metal bezels of the Yacht-Master I watches, the Yacht-Master II ref. 116689’s platinum bezel includes glossy raised numerals sitting on a sandblasted background. These contrasting metal finishes capture the light in a fantastic way, and despite the monochromatic look of the Yacht-Master II ref. 116689, it simply gleams on the wrist.

The Evolution of the Rolex Yacht-Master II

The Yacht-Master II collection is one of the younger ones from Rolex, joining the company’s catalog in 2007. However, just last year in 2007 on the tenth anniversary of the watch, Rolex made some updates . Despite keeping the same reference numbers, the new versions of the Yacht-Master II include Mercedes-style hands instead of pencil style hands. Also new to the dial are the rectangular and triangular indexes at 6 and 12 o’clock, respectively. Everything else remains the same on the Yacht-Master II models.

Whether you opt for the steel, two-tone Everose gold and steel, yellow gold, or white gold and platinum Yacht-Master II, this is a Rolex watch that makes a statement–at sea on or land.

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Soccer Stars and Their Rolex Watch Collections

The world is slowly returning to normal following the Covid-19 pandemic, with many events slated for last year now making a highly anticipated return this summer. One such event that many are buzzing about this week is the 2020 UEFA European Championship, which was originally scheduled to take place June 12th – July 12th of last year and will instead make its triumphant return June 11th – July 11th of 2021. Despite being delayed a full year due to the pandemic, the soccer tournament will keep the name UEFA Euro 2020.

The tournament will take place in 11 cities associated with the UEFA (Union of European Football Association), including Munich, Amsterdam, Saint Petersburg, London, and Rome (just to name a few). And while attendance will be limited in accordance with social distancing requirements, fans will still be allowed to attend. Some of the biggest names in soccer will be among those participating in the tournament and if you’re at all familiar with the sport, you might also know that they boast some seriously awe-inspiring watch collections. To celebrate the return of UEFA Euro 2020, let’s take a closer look at what Rolex watches those soccer stars are sporting on their wrists.

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on Rolex watches.

Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689 – Cristiano Ronaldo, Portugal

Yacht-Master II 116689 Key Features:

– Production Years: 2010 – Present

– Case Size: 44mm

– Materials: 18k White Gold & 950 Platinum

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Programmable Countdown Timer

– Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Ring Command, 950 Platinum w/ 10-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 4161

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

Our list kicks off with arguably one of the most impressive watch collections in soccer. With a reported net worth of $500 million, it comes as no surprise that Portuguese player Cristiano Ronaldo has a remarkable watch collection. He’s been known to indulge in more extravagant watches, such as the Franck Muller 7008 T INV C INV R set with hundreds of diamonds and rubies that some speculate will set you back anywhere between $1.5 – $2 million. His watch box is also home to an iced-out Jacob & Co. Grand Baguette Diamond watch ref. 330.800.30.BD.BD.1BD decorated with 761 diamonds that is worth around $1 million.

However, Ronaldo’s collection isn’t entirely out of reach for most collectors. While he does boast a rather opulent diamond-encrusted GMT-Master II “Ice” ref. 116769TBR dubbed the most expensive Rolex and a sapphire and ruby GMT-Master II ref. 116758SARU, the soccer star also owns numerous Rolex wristwatches that will appeal to the everyday watch enthusiast. Among the most notable are the yellow gold Yacht-Master II ref. 116688, white gold and platinum Yacht-Master II ref. 116689, yellow gold Sky-Dweller ref. 326938, and the Cosmograph Daytona in both stainless steel (ref. 116520) and 18k yellow gold (ref. 116528).

Rolex Submariner 116618LB – Sergio Ramos, Spain

Submariner 116618LB Key Features:

– Production Years: 2008 – 2020

– Case Size: 40mm

– Materials: 18k Yellow Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display

– Dial: Blue w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Unidirectional, Blue Ceramic Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 3135

– Water Resistance: 300 Meters / 1,000 Feet

Spanish soccer star and Real Madrid captain Sergio Ramos is one of the top players in the world. While it has since been confirmed that he will be leaving the team on June 30th and will be left off Spain’s roster for Euro 2020 following an injury-plagued season, his luxury watch collection is still worth highlighting, with brands such as Patek Philippe, IWC, Bulgari, and Rolex taking up space in his impressive timepiece collection.

Ramos was recently spotted wearing a White Rolesor Datejust II ref. 116334 with a black dial. The watch has since been discontinued (along with all Datejust II models) but can still be found on the pre-owned market for around $10k. Sergio Ramos’ Rolex collection also includes the coveted Everose Yacht-Master 126655 on an Oysterflex bracelet that retails for $27,300 and a handsome yellow gold Submariner 116618LB with a blue dial and bezel, which is available on the secondary market for around $40k.

Rolex Sky-Dweller 326938 – David Alaba, Austria

Sky-Dweller 326938 Key Features:

– Production Years: 2012 – Present

– Case Size: 42mm

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, Annual Calendar, GMT-Functionality

– Dial: Multiple Options Available

– Bezel: Ring Command, 18k Yellow Gold, Fluted Style

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 9001

David Alaba currently plays for Bundesliga club Bayern Munich and the Austria national team. He will join the Austria squad as the team vies the championship title during UEFA Euro 2020. His most recent contract earned him over $14 million/year for the next five years, giving the star soccer player more than enough cash to spend on some seriously enviable luxury watches.

One particular timepiece that caught our eye is Alaba’s yellow gold Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 326938, which retails for an impressive $46,650. The solid gold watch is just as impressive as Alaba’s soccer career, boasting a 42mm case and matching bracelet in 18k yellow gold and Rolex’s most complex movement yet – the Caliber 9001, which offers both an annual calendar complication and GMT functionality.

Rolex Submariner 116610LV – Karim Benzema, France

Submariner 116610LV Key Features:

– Production Years: 2010 – 2020

– Materials: Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel)

– Dial: Green w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Unidirectional, Green Ceramic Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

Karim Benzema, the striker for Spanish soccer club Real Madrid and the France national team is no stranger to the UEFA Champions with over 100 appearances since 2006. Benzema is worth around $70 million and has an impressive luxury watch collection to match, including a number of models from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and (naturally) Rolex.

Even the most experienced watch collectors will be impressed by his impressive Rolex lineup, which includes the cult favorite white gold Submariner with a blue dial and ceramic bezel – aka the “Smurf” (reference 116619). The Smurf Submariner is discontinued but can be found on the pre-owned market for around $40k – $50k. Benzema’s collection also includes the stainless steel Rolex Submariner Hulk (ref. 116610LV), which features a striking green dial and ceramic bezel (also discontinued), and the Cosmograph Daytona in white gold (ref. 116509) with a Mother of Pearl dial. Karim’s watch box also includes an impressive rose gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and at least two different Patek Philippe Nautilus watches (ref. 5712G in white gold and ref. 5980R in rose gold.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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