sailboat sailing at anchor

7 Best Sailboat Anchors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at.

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

‍ Perfect for larger boats
Very durable
Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
Easy to launch
Very secure
‍ Quite expensive
Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
Great for all types of seabed
Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
Perfect for all types of boats
It has an easy storage design
It's designed by a well-known brand
‍ Very expensive
‍ Its shank is only perfect for bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

‍ It has an extremely high holding power
It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
It's very durable
Designed for extreme weather conditions
‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

‍ Perfect for smaller boats
It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
Lightweight and compact
Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
Quite affordable
‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea.

‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
It's very versatile
It's durable
It's very affordable
‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option.

‍ Very functional and dependable
Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
Easy to store and transport
Made from high-quality steel
Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
‍ It has moving parts
It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

‍ It is self-launching
Made from the highest quality stainless steel
It sets easily
Perfect for most bottoms
It's lightweight and has no moving parts
‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How To: Basic Anchoring and Anchoring Etiquette

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Cruising Tips , Learn To Sail

Quite a long time ago…decades ago. I sailed over to Catalina Island from my marina near ASA headquarters. I was young. It was my first time embarking across the channel. My crew was a good friend and his cousin who was celebrating his 21st birthday. They drank beers the entire time.

In simple terms, I was a solo sailor. I was also young and irresponsible. Why admit to this? Well, we all were young once and we all made dumb decisions. Own it and learn from it.

Did I understand anchoring? No. Up to that point, I had only ever picked up a mooring ball once in my sailing life. This was way before Youtube videos explained how to drop the hook.

Frankly, ASA bite-sized lesson on Anchoring Basics would have been perfect for me.

ASA 101 Basic Keelboat sailing will prepare you for Basic Anchoring principles. However, let’s refresh some of that knowledge on how to drop and set an anchor on a sailboat.

First, a few basic anchoring tips to start:

Make sure you know where the anchor is stowed.
Make sure you know how to get it in the water safely.
Make sure you know how much rode you need to pay out.
Make sure you know how to make the rode fast on deck.

Basic Anchoring

Anchors work by digging themselves into the seabed. To do this, they need the rode to pull at an angle closer to horizontal than to vertical.

Anchoring Vocabulary:

Rode: The rope and/or chain that connects it to the boat
Scope: The ratio of the length of rode let out to the depth of water.
Make Fast: To secure, as when typing a line to a cleat.

As you drop the anchor you will need to pay out a significant amount of rode to allow for the rode to pull at an angle that is close to horizontal. This is called the scope. Typically, a 7 to 1 ratio works. This number will get adjusted depending on conditions. (A lesson learned in ASA 103, ASA 104)

To arrive at the right length of rode to let out, you add the height of the boat’s bow above the water to the depth. For example, if the depth is 10 feet and the freeboard at the bow is 4 feet, the length of rode needed for 7:1 scope will be (10 + 4) x 7 = 98 feet.

TIP : “When in doubt let in out” works well in anchoring.

Stand well clear of the anchor rode when letting go of the anchor—anchors are heavy, fall quickly through the water, and the rode can cause, at the least, a nasty rope burn

Anchoring: Step-By -Step

Approach your chosen spot for anchoring by bringing the boat to a stop, head to wind.
With the boat stopped, lower the anchor and pay out the rode as the boat blows downwind.
When enough rode has been let out, make the rode fast.
The anchor will take hold and the boat will lie head to the wind or current.
The anchor is set.

Anchoring Etiquette

A few years ago Sail-World.com published a great article on Anchor Etiquette and it is still very relevant.

1. The first boat sets the precedent:

If you arrive in an anchorage and find that all the boats have a stern anchor set, that’s now the rule. If the first one there is a cabin cruiser that yaws all over the place and they have 60 metres of rode out in five feet of water, they have set the precedent. Any subsequent comers will need to give them room.

2. Watch your Wake:

Entering an anchorage or a mooring area is like moving into a new neighborhood. Enter at a slow speed, less than five knots, to avoid making a wake that might upset their sundowner drinks or the bits from the winch they were servicing, or dinner preparations. This also applies to dinghies when traveling close to anchored boats – and in most countries, it’s the law anyway.

3. Give yourself, and other boats room:

Look at the wind in the anchorage and try to work out where the anchors of other boats are lying. Cruise through the anchorage a couple of times to assess the situation. Calling out to find out how much chain the boat has out is an indicator that you are aware of swing patterns and will attempt to place your boat so that it is not in the way of another boat. There’s also some self-preservation here too, as you may want to stay clear of potential party boats, or the boat with that very noisy wind generator. Remember, if he was here first, you are the one who has to move.

4. Watch the ‘Magnet Effect’:

A boat already anchored seems to attract the next boat to anchor right next to it, even though there is an enormous empty bay to anchor in. Try not to do this, and, if you were there first, it is your right to speak to a boat that arrives after you and ask them to move if you feel that they are too close.

5. Buoy your anchor:

In a crowded anchorage, it’s a good idea to buoy your anchor – place a floating marker on your anchor so that you, and others, know where it is. There’s nothing worse than tangled anchors, particularly if you have to make a hasty departure because of deteriorating conditions. (Of course, you have to keep a small watch to make sure your first-time sailor doesn’t arrive and try to pick it up as a mooring ball.)

6. Sound carries far:

Voices, music, engine noise, especially outboard motors, unmuffled go-fast boats, ski boats, jet skis, generators, barking dogs and the dreaded ringing telephone are all examples of the egregious disruption of anchorage serenity. Common sense should prevail in predicting what will not be appreciated and protecting the serenity for the common good.

7. Keep Bow to Cockpit communications civil:

It’s not the anchoring, or the need to re-anchor, which separates the beginners from the experts. It is the amount of yelling and chaos that breaks out between the person handling the anchor and the person maneuvering the boat. Boating is the only sport that requires T-shirts that proclaim ‘Don’t yell at me!’ Either develop a set of hand signals or better still, use some inexpensive walkie-talkies, so that at least your comments on the abilities of your other crew member will be kept on your boat.

8. Think of your neighbors AND the environment:

The smell of burgers on the grill might be a marvelous aroma for most, but really smelly cooking upwind of a boatload of vegetarians may be a cause for some strong sentiments. Don’t go into a crowded anchorage full of pristine water and then not use the holding tank! – It’s really not a good scene for swimmers in the water. And it can ruin your whole day to find yourself swimming with rotten tomatoes or floating banana skins.

9. Be careful with lights at night:

When anchored at night always have an anchor light on (black ball during the day), when looking for an anchorage don’t shine a strong beam directly into another boat’s cockpit, and don’t be the boat that’s lit up like a football field deep into the night when all else in the anchorage are trying to sleep.

Aerial view of the deck of a sailboat in Caribbean waters

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

How Many Anchors Should You Have For Your Boat?
The Power of Anchors: Why You Should Use Them to Keep Your Boat Safe
Mooring Made Easy: A Step-by-Step Guide to Picking Up a Mooring for Your Boat
How To Dock Your Boat Like A Pro: Stern-In, Bow-In, And Alongside

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

Home » Blog » Sail » How to anchor a boat – an illustrated guide!

How to anchor a boat – an illustrated guide!

By Author Robin Urquhart

Posted on Last updated: May 11, 2019

How to anchor a boat like a pro – the ultimate guide with easy to follow diagrams

Anchoring a boat can be intimidating, but with the right anchor and some simple techniques it can be very easy and safe . Learn how to anchor a boat in a variety of conditions below.

Choosing a boat anchor

The size and type of anchor you will need is primarily based on three elements: boat weight, windage and bottom condition. Each anchor manufacturer has a sizing guide based on your boat type and displacement, so it’s best too look them up individually. Here are the anchor sizing guides for Rocna , Manson , Lewmar ( CQR, Delta ), Danforth , and Fortress .

Boat anchor types

There is a new generation of modern anchors that are taking hold and are typified by Rocna and Manson. These new generation style anchors perform well in a variety of bottom conditions and often feature roll bars. But you’ll also find many sailors who swear by their older generation Bruce anchors and CQRs . Many of these anchors are available in galvanized steel or a (more expensive) stainless steel option. However, the stainless steel is more for looks and has no impact on anchor holding performance.

The following chart is a general guideline for how various boat anchors perform in different bottom conditions [1] :

[table id=boatanchor /]

Boat anchors for sale

Now that you know what anchor you want, here are a few tips on buying a boat anchor.

Where to find cheap boat anchors for sale

One of the great things about boat anchors is that they last forever! So there are tons of second-hand anchors for sale that work just as well and cost less than buying new . Of course, due to their weight, they’re expensive to ship so your best bet is to buy an anchor from a marine consignment store or boat junk yard near you .

Budgeting for a complete anchor kit

There will be three major components to your ground tackle (your complete anchoring system) so be sure to leave room in your budget for anchoring accessories .

1) The anchor

The larger the anchor, the more expensive . The anchor itself will cost more if you have a big boat. For example, a small boat anchor, say for a 22 ft boat, might only cost you $200 but for a 50 ft boat you could pay $1,000 or more.

2) The boat anchor winch

At a certain size the anchor will become too heavy to retrieve by hand and you will need a manual or electric boat anchor winch . At the top of the line you can buy a wireless remote to conveniently raise and lower your anchor from anywhere on the boat. Anchor winches can be expensive (likely will cost more than the anchor itself) and time-consuming to install. Whether you can get away without a boat anchor winch, will depend on the size of your anchor and your physical strength.

3) Anchor chain or line

You will also have to purchase anchor line, chain, or a combination of both. High-test anchor chain is the more expensive option ($4-11 per foot). S ome cruisers choose all chain rodes for improved catenary and resistance to abrasion , but the general rule is to have at least 20′ of chain . See paragraph on “How Much Scope” below for how much line or chain you will need.

Anchoring systems can quickly become expensive but they’re also usually worth the investment. Even the most budget conscious cruisers we know tend to invest in this area, some even deeming it an “insurance policy” for their boat. With all that money dangling at the end of your anchor line, many cruisers set up tripping lines. This is essentially a float tied to the anchor that marks its position and can assist in retrieving the anchor if it becomes fouled.

How a boat anchor works

A boat anchor is a simple device. It is designed such that the more pull force applied in line with the shank; the more the anchor seeks to embed itself in the seabed. However, it is impossible to pull an anchor laterally due to the height or depth of the water between the boat and the anchor. That’s where catenary and scope come into play.

Catenary and scope

Catenary is the name of the curve that is formed by the anchor rode (anchor line) between the boat and the anchor. Scope is a ratio between the depth of the anchor plus the freeboard of the vessel and how much rode is deployed . Catenary and scope are both important in determining the angle at which the anchor is pulled. The lower the angle, the better the anchor will perform.

How much scope

The more scope that is deployed, the deeper the catenary curve will be. This is important because it determines the angle of pull on the anchor and acts as extra weight and friction on the seafloor. As wind or current increase the boat will move further from the anchor, decreasing the catenary and increasing the angle of pull. In a strong windstorm, when the rode is tight and there is little to no catenary, the amount of rode deployed will determine directly the angle at which the anchor is being pulled.

Common recommendations for how much scope to let out are as follows:

3:1 for lunch stops

5:1 for mild to moderate winds

7:1 for moderate to strong winds or frequent direction changes

10+:1 for very strong winds and/or current

How to anchor a boat

Successfully setting an anchor has a lot to do with communication between the person steering and the person deploying the anchor at the bow. Because of the noise of the engine and wind, we use a system of hand signals to communicate as we set the anchor. Some crews like to use walkie-talkies. Our anchoring system for setting a boat anchor is:

Bowman drops the anchor in an appropriate location (leaving plenty of swinging room), while drifting backwards slowly
Helmsman places marker on GPS and Ipad anchor alarm
Bowman lets out 3:1 scope
Helmsman reverses slowly until anchor sets
Helmsman increases RPM to 1800 and hold for five to ten seconds
Bowman l ets out remainder of rode , depending on the anchorage and weather conditions.

Of course if you plan on sailing onto your anchor (not using a motor) there are a few extra steps .

How to anchor a boat in various conditions

Learning how to anchor a boat in swell can be challenging if the wind is coming from another direction. Depending on the conditions we use two techniques for anchoring in swell. Primarily we set a stern anchor to keep our bow pointed roughly 15 degrees off the swell; as we have found this to be the most comfortable position. Sometimes in less challenging conditions we will set a winch bridle .

Setting the stern anchor

There are two main ways to set the stern anchor . The first is to set the primary anchor as you normally would. Once set and the appropriate amount of scope deployed, let out another five to seven scope of rode. Reverse the boat, keeping the bow into the swell until the rode becomes taut. Drop the stern anchor and take up the five scope of bow rode. Take up the stern anchor rode until it is taut.

An alternative is to take the stern anchor in the dinghy to where out 5:1 scope and then winch it taut.

Rigging a bridle

After the anchor is set, some prefer to attach the anchor rode to a bridle rather than leave it running over the bow roller. A bridle offers a sacrificial layer and reduces strain on the bow roller. It also reduces swaying and yawing and the noise of the chain.

Setting the winch bridle

Another option for anchoring in swell is to set up a winch bridle . This is accomplished by fixing a line onto the rode, using a rolling hitch, and bringing that line back to a cockpit winch. By winching in on the line, it creates a bridle that is no longer directly off the bow of the boat. This option works if the wind direction is constant, though the winch line can be adjusted as the wind shifts to keep the bow in a comfortable direction.

Two anchors to reducing yawing

In areas where the wind is shifting a lot you may want to set two bow anchors. Two anchors are set to windward approximately 22-30 degrees to either side of the bow. Setting two bow anchors is similar to setting a stern anchor, except that after setting the first anchor instead of backing up you motor upwind at a 45-60 degree angle. When you are even with the first anchor, drop the second anchor and fall back between the two, adjusting the rodes as necessary.

Current changes

In areas that experience fast currents and 180 degree shifts, a common anchoring technique is called the Bahamian moor . This is more common on the east coast, but is also useful in the river bar anchorages frequent along the California, Washington and Oregon coastlines. It is the same technique as setting the stern anchor, except that instead of fixing the second anchor to a clean at the stern, both anchors are run off the bow.

Wind and current

Sometimes wind and current will work against each other , causing no end of concern. In such conditions, boats, especially modern hull designs with fin keels, can move around the anchorage almost at random as they are influenced alternatively by the wind and current. In such a scenario, turning the wheel hard over to one side and locking it usually keeps the boat in a relatively stable position . It is same principle as heaving-to; the forward motion of the boat causes it to turn thereby changing the wind angle and dissipating the force.

Etiquette and safety

The three simple rules of anchoring etiquette, which will also increase safety in the anchorage, are:

Keep as much room between yourself and other boats as is reasonably possible
Follow the anchoring method (ie. stern anchor, Bahamian moor, etc.) of the boats that were there before you
Leave room for other boats who come after you to anchor in the anchorage

Anchor alarms

In the unlikely and unfortunate event that the anchor drags there are a number of alarms that will let you know. Some GPS chartplotters have built-in anchor alarms, drift alarms or depth alarms. These are handy, but the GPS is often in the cockpit and unless you have a receiver, you may not hear it from the V-berth. Another option is to download an anchor watch alarm app . Apps often have more functions than the GPS alarm and we can keep the Ipad near us at all times.

Set it and forget it

Whether you are headed out for the day, weekend or season, the basic techniques for anchoring do not change much. The vast majority of the time you will be relying on only one or two of the techniques outlined above. Anchoring is an individualistic activity and everybody has their own personal preferences that have been refined over time. But at its heart anchoring is pretty routine and doesn’t have to be overly complicated.

So now that you know how to anchor a boat it’s time to set the anchor, grab a drink and enjoy life on the hook!

“Ankkurit Testissa” Klaus Salkola, Kippari. March 2015

“14 Ancres Sous Haute Tension” Francois-Xavier de Crecy Voile May 2012

“Anchors Aware! Anchors on Test” Professor John Knox Practical Boat Owner August 2011

“Holding Power” Bill Springer, SAIL, October 2006

“Anchoring”67 th Ed. Chapman Piloting and Seamanship, 2013

“Selecting the Right Anchor” Tom Burden The West Advisor 2014

Robin was born and raised in the Canadian North. His first memory of travel on water was by dogsled across a frozen lake. After studying environmental science and engineering he moved to Vancouver aboard a 35’ sailboat with his partner, Fiona, with the idea to fix up the boat and sail around the world. He has written for several sailing publications including SAIL, Cruising World, and was previously a contributing editor at Good Old Boat.

Jean Baillargeon

Saturday 11th of May 2019

Monday 24th of April 2017

Interesting that you fail to mention anchor bearings taken with a hand bearing compass. These are not totally fool proof, but they are a low tech method of checking your anchored position. Three bearings taken at approximately 120 degree angles on objects that should be visible at night and you are set. Check them periodically to insure you are in the same position. Chapman's has a nice section describing how to do them.

Just because it is old and low tech does not mean that it is worth ignoring.

We enter them in the log as well as when we hoist, or turn on, the anchor light in the event there may be a legal question about these things.

You also fail to mention getting up at regular intervals to look things over.....many unforeseen problems occur that are not even on your boat, such as another boat coming in and anchoring on top of you after you go to sleep.

I like and use the electronic anchor alarms, but I won't bet my life on them.

Monday 29th of May 2017

Such excellently points. Thank you Jim. I'm looking forward to trying your hand-bearing compass suggestion. Thanks so much for sharing.

Mark Holzmann

Friday 21st of April 2017

Great information Robin. Don't forget to include Mantus anchors in your consideration. They are awesome and excel in most anchor tests.

I would love some ideas for anchoring on Rivers with current and wind. If using rope road you can get lazy anchor syndrome. That's when wind can over come current, your boat drifts lazy on the water and eventually your rode wraps around your keel. Not fun!! Aside from a stern anchors, chain or a Kellett I am at wits end, LOL!!

Thanks Mark, you're right, Mantus are great anchors. We know lots of boats sporting them. One of the best features is being able to break them down to flat for storage and transport. We included Mantus in the chart in the article and in the mention of new generation anchors. As for anchoring in rivers with a lot of wind we don't have a lot of experience, but we've heard a lot of people like the Bahamian moor. I actually originally included a diagram in the article but removed it for brevity's sake. I'll add it back in again and republish, but there is a lot of good information on how to set up a Bahamian moor. Sometimes difficult to set, but overall works very well in rivers with shifting currents. Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

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In this anchoring tips video, you learn how to properly use a windlass when bringing up the anchor.

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18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

Can be stowed flat.
Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

Digs well into the seabed.
Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
Easy to break out when pulling it in.
Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
Has a relatively lightweight.
No moving parts.
Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

Very lightweight.
Digs into the seabed quite well.
Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

Very strong holding power.
Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
Excellent surface area.
Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

Digs well into many types of seabed.
Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

You may also like, how to measure your anchor chain size (two ways).

Buying new anchor your chain for your boat can be more complex than it sounds. You can't just walk into a marine store and order "A hundred meters of your best." …

How to Select and Install the Right Anchor Rode

How To Mark & Measure Anchor Chain & Rode (3 Ways)

Guide to Anchoring Ground Tackle - parts, checks, deployment

How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring?

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor Best Overall Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Lewmar Claw Anchor Best Holding Power Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

Fortress FX-11 Anchor Best For Small Sailboats

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

Rocna Galvanized Anchor Best For Large Sailboats

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What to consider when buying a sailboat anchor.

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

Five Oceans Danforth Style
Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

Fluke anchors
Plow anchors
Claw anchors
Mushroom anchors
Grapnel anchors

Yachting Monthly

Digital edition

Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

Rupert Holmes
January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: we may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. this doesn’t affect our editorial independence., 7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

How to Anchor a Sailboat

Follow These Guidelines to Anchor Safely and Securely

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The Importance of Good Anchoring Technique

Few sailing experiences are as scary as waking in the middle of the night with the wind blowing hard and your boat dragging anchor toward rocks, the shore, or another boat. And one of the most irritating things for most cruising sailors is finding another boat dragging down upon them or getting tangled in their own anchor line.

Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety. Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.

But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.

1. Prepare in Advance

Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.

2. Pick Your Spot Carefully

After studying the chart and choosing a general protected area, look for a spot with the right depth: from a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat (at low tide) to as deep as 30-40 feet if necessary—if you have at least 200-300 feet of anchor rode.
Make sure you are well clear of any channel regardless of how the boat swings with wind shifts, and that there are no hazards if your boat were to swing in a full circle around the anchor.
When other boats are already anchored nearby, follow good anchoring etiquette to stay safe without risking collision or entanglement. The general rule is that the first boat in an anchorage can choose its spot at will and each subsequent boat must stay clear of others already present.
Calculate how much swinging room you may need if the wind changes, based on how much anchor rode you will pay out according to the water depth. If possible, make sure your swinging circle does not overlap with any other boat’s swinging room.
In a crowded anchorage where your swinging room may have to overlap another boat’s, choose a spot among similar boats. Most cruising sailboats with a keel will swing in the same direction at the same time and therefore should not collide if not positioned too close together. But a shallow-draft powerboat will swing on the wind differently from a keel sailboat, increasing the risk of collision if their swinging circles overlap.

3. Approach Slowly

Although you can learn to anchor under sail, most cruising boats lower or furl the sails before making the approach into the anchorage, and anchor under power. Using the engine also gives you more control if a last-minute maneuver is needed.
Approach your planned spot into the wind, keeping an eye on your depthfinder or chartplotter to ensure you are where you want to be on the chart. If there is a strong current in the area that affects the boat more than the wind, approach into the current instead.
As you near the spot, slow down to allow the boat to coast to a stop. If you come in fast and have to use the engine in reverse to stop, there’s a good chance the boat may pivot or turn during the reversing, and the boat then will not at first pull directly back on the anchor. There’s seldom any reason to be in a hurry at this point.
Double-check to make sure you are not too close to another boat and are at the intended depth. If you decide you need to move to either side, circle back around to make your approach again to the new spot upwind or current.

4. Lower, Don’t Drop, the Anchor

Wait until the person at the helm says the boat has stopped completely and is starting to move backward on the wind or current before lowering the anchor. (Watch your GPS speed if you’re not sure.) If the boat is still moving ahead, you may accidentally set the anchor in the wrong direction by pulling it ahead instead of drifting back to set it.
It is important to lower the anchor gradually to prevent the anchor rode from falling down on the anchor flukes and possibly fouling the anchor. In that case you may not realize the anchor has not set well, and if the wind comes up later the anchor can easily drag if fouled. Never just toss the anchor over hoping for the best!
You can tell when the anchor reaches the bottom because of the reduced strain on the rode. Pause a moment to let the boat move back and pull the rode tight. If the boat is floating motionless in the absence of wind and current, tell the person at the helm to put the engine in reverse to start the boat backward. Your goal here is to align the anchor correctly on the bottom, with its shank pulled back in the direction in which the boat will lie at anchor. Otherwise, the anchor chain may foul the shank or flukes and prevent the anchor from setting well.

5. Set the Anchor

Making sure the anchor is well set (that is, dug in well in the bottom) is the most important part of anchoring. The anchor holds the boat by digging its flukes into the bottom, not by just lying there like a weight on the bottom. If the anchor is not set, the boat may seem well anchored until the wind comes up—when the anchor will then bounce along the bottom as the boat drags toward a hazard.
As the boat moves backwards due to wind, current, or the engine’s power in reverse, gradually pay out the rode. Always keep a light tension on the line, but don’t yet clinch it tight. (If you tighten the rode too soon, the anchor will be pulled upward and out of the bottom and will not set.)
Visualize the anchor rode pulling straight back on the anchor shank as the point(s) of the anchor fluke(s) dig in. If your anchor rode is all chain or has a section of chain at the anchor, the pull will be more nearly horizontal along the bottom. This is how anchors are designed to dig in and hold.
When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set. If the anchor has not set, you will feel the tension in the rode come and go or feel its pull changing as the anchor bounces along the bottom.
If the anchor has set, continue with the next step of paying out scope. If it has not set, you can also continue but must be very careful to ensure the anchor digs in when you have the proper scope. If the anchor has not set yet with about a 3 to 1 scope, many sailors prefer to hoist it now and try again rather than letting out more anchor rode and having to bring it all back up to try again later.

6. Pay Out the Proper Scope

Continue paying out the rode as the boat moves backward, until you reach the desired scope. Many factors affect the scope needed, including the type of boat, the type of anchor, whether the rode is all chain or a combination of chain and line, the characteristics of the bottom, and the wind predicted.
As a general rule, most cruisers prefer a scope of 7 to 1 for safe anchoring overnight. For a lunch stop in a calm anchorage, a scope of 5 to 1 or less may be sufficient, assuming someone stays on the boat in case the wind increases dramatically. With higher winds or big waves, a scope as high as 10 to 1 may be appropriate. Remember that the scope should be based on the high tide water depth. If you anchor at low tide in 10 feel of water and the depth 6 hours later is 20 feet, your scope then would be only half of what it was.
Once you have the proper scope, back down hard on the anchor using the boat's engine to ensure it is well set. The rode should be very tight and not give at all while backing.
Scope can be adjusted later if conditions change, simply by letting out more rode if desired. This increases your swinging distance, of course, so you should confirm you will remain far enough away from other boats or hazards.

7. Check the Anchor Periodically

Even when you’re sure the anchor is well set, changing conditions can result in the anchor dragging. Before relaxing completely for the night, make sure you can tell later on if the boat is dragging.
Your GPS or plotter can reveal changes of position, although small changes may not be noticeable or may be interpreted as just swinging in a different direction. If possible, take sightings on at least two features on shore (choose something that will be visible at night) and note the compass bearings to each. If these bearings change significantly later, you may be dragging. A smartphone or tablet app like My Anchor Watch can also help ensure you know it if your anchor is starting to drag.
Another technique used by old-timers is to let down a small second anchor or weight from the stern just to the point where it rests on the bottom, and then drape it over the boom and dangle a noise-maker like a bucket or pot tied to the free end. If the boat moves very far, the line will pull the noisemaker over the boom to clang down into the cockpit, hopefully waking you to take action if needed!
If you suspect you may be dragging, check the anchor rode at the bow. You may feel or see changes in its tension if the anchor is bumping over the bottom. If you have any evidence of dragging, monitor the situation very carefully. In calmer conditions the anchor may reset, but with gusty or heavy winds it will likely not dig in by itself, and you may have to hoist the anchor and move to a new position and start over.
Finally, in an emergency situation if the anchor is dragging or a gale puts you at risk of dragging—particularly against a reef or lee shore—you can avert disaster by running the engine slowly in forward gear to take some of the strain off the anchor rode.

A common anchoring problem occurs if the anchor's flukes hook under a rock, chain, or other bottom debris and prevent the anchor from being hoisted. Try backing pulling the anchor up from the opposite direction in an attempt to free it. The best solution is to use a trip line or the AnchorRescue retrieval device to prevent the risk of losing your anchor should it become snagged.

Anchoring involves a number of skills, which improve with experience. Many books have been written on the subject, and when cruising in unfamiliar waters or far from home where you may be caught in a tricky situation, it’s a good idea to have a book on anchoring or seamanship on board to consult for appropriate techniques in unusual circumstances.

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Welcome to Worry-free Anchoring

When looking for an anchor you want to make sure it digs in the first time, buries deep, has high holding power and holds when winds or currents shift.

For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets.

We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. If you are not sure which anchor is right for you, use our simple anchor calculator – link below.

Sailboat Anchor Range

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Boss Anchor

11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Racer Anchor

10 Sizes: 2.2 - 35lbs

Plough Anchor (HHP)

17 Sizes: 10 - 300lbs

Ray Anchor (HHP)

Sand Anchor

What size anchor do i need, the manson anchor difference, why buy a manson anchor.

Global Leader

We are the experts in anchoring. We’ve been doing this since 1972, that’s almost 50 years’ experience making anchors. We are the desired anchor brand, chosen by serious boaters all over the world; from the rugged coastlines of Western Australia, to Florida and the Mediterranean. You are in safe hands.

Largest Range in the World

We understand the unique challenges of anchoring and we know all boats are not equal, so we design and build anchors to suit every situation – from small craft through to superyachts. Don’t settle for a standard anchor. Get the anchor that will be perfect for your boating needs and keep you and your family safe.

Made in New Zealand

Our anchors are proudly crafted in New Zealand by Lloyd’s Register approved welders using certified Lloyd’s Register approved materials in a specialist facility. They are not made cheaply in developing countries who have little respect for quality, the environment or what it means to anchor safely. This means you are buying a quality anchor that you can rely on.

We are trusted to make anchors for some of the best shipyards in the world who build exquisite superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels. This means that you’re buying the same brand selected by superyacht owners and their captains. Simply put, you are choosing an anchor from the world’s leading anchor brand. Anchor with the world’s best.

What our customers say about us

Colin Goldsworthy

We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.

During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.

That night many boats dragged their moorings and ended up on the beach. Your Supreme Anchor is great insurance.

Tom McCallum

Auckland, new zealand.

My 15lb Manson Supreme provided a heroic task in holding my 6 ton yacht all night in hurricane conditions in a bay with bad press on its seabed. Needless to say my faith in these anchors is profound and their design and tenacity legendary. I would use no other.

FLORIDA, USA

Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.

Aaron Dixon

New zealand.

I have toured the Manson factory on many occasions and have witnesses first-hand the quality of workmanship in full swing. The attention to detail they take in the selection of the metals, fabrication processes, welding and casting is amazing. Any vessel I own will always be fitted with a Manson Anchor.

David Forester

Mississippi, usa.

I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.

Graham McKenzie

Wellington, new zealand.

In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising friends changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanized twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.

Brian Holloway

We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.

Brian Bearden

New providence, bahamas.

The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.

NZ Trade and Enterprise

Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed

Big Angry Fish

The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.

The Manson Anchor will dig in first time so you can get lines over the side straight away.

The sliding shaft is a great feature that makes it so much easier to retrieve the anchor from foul ground.

It is so important for every fisherman to have a good anchor onboard, we recommended the Manson Boss to everyone!

West Marine

The Boss takes the performance of the Supreme and makes it conform to any bow-roller. The Boss works well on power and fishing boats that don’t work with the bow.

The winglets work as a bow-roller to ensure a reliable and quick setting anchor much like the Supreme.

This is an incredibly fast setting, high holding power anchor.

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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

Manson Supreme
Manson Boss
Rocna Original
LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 things to consider to find the best sailboat anchor, monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out these popular buyer's guides:

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Vidya Balan likens herself to a boat in her relationship with Siddharth Roy Kapur; what does the ‘boat anchor theory’ say about your bond?

As two of the most successful public figures, how do vidya balan and siddharth roy kapur maintain a fulfilling relationship.

In a recent podcast with content creator Raj Shamani, actor Vidya Balan likened herself to a “boat” in her marriage with Siddharth Roy Kapur , when asked whether she considers herself as a boat or an anchor.

Shamani said, “There’s this study where they say that you can randomly ask people who are in relationships about – are they boat or an anchor – and their first instinct will tell you the person they are and who they’re attracted to.”

“If you are a boat and you have great relationships, it means the other person in your life is an anchor.”

Initially, Balan said, “It depends on what the other (person) brings out in me.” But, after being prompted to choose one, she admitted that she likes to “go with the flow” as she is more adventurous compared to Kapur, who she says, is the rock or the anchor in the relationship and “a very calm and zen person.”. “He’s the rock, he’s solid for all the people in his life… not just for me, but his own family, his friends… so he’s just one of those people,” she elaborates.

The boat and anchor theory is an analogy often used to describe the roles individuals play in relationships. The boat represents the partner who brings excitement, adventure, and movement to the relationship, while the anchor symbolises stability, support, and grounding.

Application of the ‘boat and anchor theory’ to partnerships

Mental health and relationship expert Aashmeen Munjaal expressed that generally, the boat represents the partner who goes with the flow and brings in energy and drive in a relationship, whereas being an anchor significantly brings in the qualities of stability and support.

“Just as an anchor keeps the boat steady in high tides, in marriages too anchors act as a source of support and security in challenging times. On the contrary, a partner with boat qualities may be more adventurous, injecting excitement into a relationship .

However, she adds that it is not necessarily the case that one partner remains the boat and the other remains the anchor. “With changing circumstances, there can always be a change in dynamics. You must remember that to maintain a healthy relationship, you must foster effective communication, respect, compassion, and understanding with each other.”

In the context of marriage, Rhea Joseph, consultant psychologist at Cadabams Mindtalks adds, this theory highlights the balance of stability and growth within the partnership. A healthy marriage often requires both these elements – adventure to keep the relationship vibrant and growth-oriented, and stability to ensure safety and trust.

Roles of the boat and the anchor in relationships

Joseph describes what the role of a boat and an anchor means in relationships:

Boat’s Role: The boat in a relationship is about forward motion and adaptability. This partner often drives change and encourages the couple to try new experiences, facilitating personal and mutual growth.

Anchor’s Role: The anchor provides a sense of safety, reliability, and consistency . This role is crucial for building a secure base in the relationship, from which both partners can confidently explore individual and shared aspirations.

Balancing Roles: Understanding and appreciating these roles can lead to a more harmonious relationship. Partners can switch roles as needed, adapting to life’s changes and challenges, ensuring that both growth and stability are nurtured.

How Balan realised that Kapur is ‘the one’ for her: Significance of small gestures

Balan’s close and loving relationship with her husband sheds light on the dynamics of their relationship. She recalled a moment when Kapur went out of his way to fulfill her simple desire for a cup of coffee. “It was late in the night,” she recalled that she had just arrived at the airport and he came to pick her up.

But, since she wanted to have some coffee, he decided to brave the heavy rain by finding a restaurant that was still open and fetching her a cup of her favourite beverage. “As he was walking away from me, I said I was home. I don’t know why I felt that.” she said.

Munjaal says that this reveals a lot about the nature of romantic connections and the significance of small gestures in building intimacy.

“The actress’s experience indeed reflects the concept of emotional bonding within a romantic relationship. This gesture highlights care, compassion, and thoughtfulness towards her needs. Such small gestures foster a sense of security and comfort in any relationship .”

Joseph also notes, “Consistent small gestures like these can be more impactful than occasional grand gestures. They build a cumulative sense of being valued and loved, which is crucial for deep, enduring connections.”

Such actions often hold symbolic meanings, serving as tangible manifestations of love and support. They reassure individuals of their partner’s commitment and understanding, she says, which are foundational to romantic satisfaction.

Siddharth Roy Kapur
Vidya Balan

Manisha Koirala praises Sanjay Leela Bhansali's innovative filmmaking style and shares her experience of filming a bold scene with Shekhar Suman, which was improvised by Bhansali. She also speaks highly of Salman Khan's philanthropic work through Being Human foundation.

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Man, 38, arrested in connection with small boat crossings

The man, who claimed to be an Iraqi national, was arrested on suspicion of facilitating illegal immigration to the UK from Turkey.

Sunday 5 May 2024 15:20, UK

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A 38-year-old man has been arrested in connection with small boat crossings.

The man, who claimed to be an Iraqi national, was arrested on suspicion of facilitating illegal immigration to the UK early on Sunday.

He was arrested in Preston as part of an ongoing NCA investigation into two small boat crossings from France in November and December 2023.

Investigators believe the man was involved in facilitating migrants travelling from Turkey to the UK and advertised smuggling services on social media.

The NCA seized phones and documents during a raid of his address.

NCA senior investigating officer Al Mullen commented: "Today's arrest marks a significant point in an international investigation into organised immigration crime.

"Tackling this threat is a priority for the NCA, we have seen only in recent weeks how dangerous these crossings are."

More on Lancashire

Officers were 'shocked' to see a driver, a passenger in the rear seat and a child were had all failed to buckle up in the car. Pic: Lancashire Road Police

Toddler found asleep on passenger's lap with no seatbelt

Two jailed after police seize £17.2m worth of cocaine hidden inside blocks of cheese

Scott Brown, 31, of Thornton Cleveleys, has been jailed for trying to smuggle cocaine into the UK by hiding the class A drug inside a table. Pic of police evidence. Pic: North West Regional Organised Crime Unit

Drug dealer Scott Brown caught trying to smuggle cocaine by hiding it inside table

Nude cruise to set sail from Florida next year: Here are the starting costs, itinerary

The "Big Nude Boat" cruise, which allows passengers to bare all − yes, even at the buffet − is set to sail from Florida next year.

The "11-day adventure" to the Caribbean is set for the first two weeks of February on the Norwegian Pearl, according to the Bare Necessities Tour & Travel website.

"Bare Necessities’ newest nude cruise is a private island double-dip with a brand new travel partner!" the company wrote on its website.

The trip which embarks from Miami, includes "an exclusive visit to an idyllic private island" in The Bahamas as well a another exclusive stop on the way back to the Port of Miami.

"Two opportunities to enjoy a new slice of Bare-adise, coupled with a beautiful selection of Eastern Caribbean island stops, will make this a can’t miss Big Nude Boat experience," the travel company posted.

Why cruises are popular with swingers: 'What happens on the ship ... stays on the ship'

A cruise to nowhere: Royal Caribbean sailing canceled after guests boarded

Big Nude Boat cruise sailing dates and destinations:

The ship departs from the Port of Miami on Feb. 3 and returns to the same port on Feb. 14.

The itinerary includes stops at the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, St. Maarten, Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia.

How much does the Big Nude Boat cruise cost?

Rates for an inside cabin start at $2,000 per person.

They stretch as high as $33,155 for the top room on the ship: a Haven three-bedroom garden villa.

Laws of the land (and sea)

Guests are encouraged to park their bare behinds on towels provided on board in areas including the pool deck and the buffet area, according to the website.

"Passengers can easily follow our rule on nudist etiquette by always placing a towel down before sitting," it reads. "Remember to pack a swimsuit; not all excursions are clothing optional."

Natalie Neysa Alund is a senior reporter for USA TODAY. Reach her at [email protected] and follow her on X @nataliealund.

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California Boat Captain Is Sentenced to 4 Years in Fire That Killed 34

Jerry Nehl Boylan was found guilty last year of “seaman’s manslaughter” for abandoning his commercial diving ship when it caught fire in 2019. The fire killed 33 passengers and one crew member.

A balding, bearded man wearing a blue checkered shirt walks down the steps outside a courthouse holding a large disposable cup of coffee. Another man in a suit walks next to him.

By Jesus Jiménez

The captain of a dive boat that caught fire off the coast of Southern California in 2019, killing all 33 of its passengers and a crew member, was sentenced on Thursday to four years in prison after a lengthy hearing that included emotional testimony from relatives of the victims.

A federal jury in November found the captain, Jerry Nehl Boylan, guilty of misconduct or neglect of ship officer , a crime also known as “seaman’s manslaughter.”

Mr. Boylan, 70, of Santa Barbara, Calif., was the captain of the Conception, a commercial scuba diving vessel, when a fire broke out in the early hours of Sept. 2, 2019, while the ship was anchored near Santa Cruz Island, according to prosecutors.

Mr. Boylan and four other crew members were able to escape the fire, but the 33 passengers, who were sleeping below deck, died, prosecutors said. One crew member also was killed. Prosecutors said Mr. Boylan failed to try to save them.

U.S. District Judge George H. Wu of the Central District of California sentenced Mr. Boylan to four years in prison at a hearing in Los Angeles on Thursday. When he delivered the sentence, Judge Wu said that he had considered Mr. Boylan’s age and health issues, including chronic back pain and high blood pressure, describing it as “one of the most difficult” sentences he has had to determine.

Mr. Boylan could also be ordered to pay restitution. Judge Wu scheduled a hearing for July 11 to discuss an amount.

Before he was sentenced on Thursday, lawyers for Mr. Boylan said that he was sleeping when the fire broke out and that the ship was not running. Judge Wu said that even though he was sleeping and the ship was docked, the ship was still under his command.

The judge on Thursday heard from 17 people whose loved ones died in the fire. Their statements were emotional and detailed a sense of their loss. Many delivered their comments through tears, including one woman who shouted at Mr. Boylan.

Barbara Chan said her brother, Raymond Chan, 59, and a niece, Kendra Chan, 26, died on the boat while on a father-daughter trip. Ms. Chan described having to tell her parents the news and her emotional struggles since then.

“I cannot erase the terror that engulfed me,” she said. “Despair and anxiety became my constant companions.”

Mr. Boylan did not address the court. In a brief statement read aloud by one of his lawyers, he said that he had cried almost every day since the fire.

“I failed,” he said in the statement said. “I am so sorry.”

Lawyers for Mr. Boylan did not immediately respond to requests for comment on Thursday.

Martin Estrada, the U.S. attorney for the Central District of California, said in a statement on Thursday that Mr. Boylan’s “cowardice and repeated failures caused the horrific deaths of 34 people.”

“The victims’ families will be forever devastated by this needless tragedy,” he said. “While today’s sentence cannot fully heal their wounds, we hope that our efforts to hold this defendant criminally accountable brings some measure of healing to the families.”

Prosecutors said Mr. Boylan failed to carry out his duties the night of the fire by not having a night watch, not attempting to save lives or fight the fire even though he was uninjured, and not using the ship’s public address system to alert those on board about the fire.

Mr. Boylan was the first crew member to flee the ship, even though the passengers were still alive and in need of help to escape, prosecutors said.

A cause of the fire has not been determined. The National Transportation Safety Board said in 2020 that the lack of a required night patrol aboard the boat, along with a lack of smoke detectors, delayed the response to the fire and contributed to the high death toll.

The fire was one of California’s worst maritime disasters, and it led to a new federal fire safety rules for small boats as well as a number of lawsuits, including a wrongful-death lawsuit filed by the victims’ families that accused the U.S. Coast Guard of failing to enforce regulations and allowing the boat to operate with substandard electrical and safety systems.

Mr. Boylan was initially indicted by a federal grand jury in 2020 on 34 counts of seaman’s manslaughter, but a federal judge dismissed the indictment because the judge said it failed to allege “gross negligence.”

In October 2022, an indictment of one count of seaman’s manslaughter was reinstated. By fleeing the ship, it said, Mr. Boylan’s “misconduct, gross negligence and inattention to his duties” led to the deaths of 34 people.

Jesus Jiménez covers breaking news, online trends and other subjects. He is based in New York City. More about Jesus Jiménez

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COMMENTS

7 Best Sailboat Anchors
For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate ...
Boat Anchoring Techniques Explained (Illustrated Guide)
Start by making your initial drop on that patch of clear sand and let up from one third to one half your expected rode out. Then tie a fender to the chain with a stout line and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode. Tie on another fender, and let out another 1/3 of the remaining rode.
HOW TO ANCHOR A SAILBOAT
SIX STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL ANCHORING. How to anchor? What anchor should I choose? Is there a best anchor? In "How to anchor a sailboat" we take you through the ...
How to Anchor a Boat: 7 Critical Steps (Lake, River, Sea)
Total depth for scope calculation: 24 feet. So setting your scope at 7:1, you will need to let out 154 feet (24 x 7). For all chain, you can use 5:1 which is 120 feet (24 x 5). Anchoring in Lakes and Rivers: if you are anchoring some place without tides, you can skip the tide swing estimation.
Anchors & Anchoring: A Basic Guide
The rule of thumb to determine rope diameter for an anchor rode is to allow 1/8" for every 9 foot of boat length. Using this equation, a 28-foot boat would use a ½" line. However, if your boat is full keel or tends to drift in the wind when on anchor then it is recommended to go up at least one rope size.
How To Sail: Anchoring How To
New to sailing? We created this comprehensive basic sailing video series just for you! We know how difficult it is to find solid answers to your questions re...
How To: Basic Anchoring and Anchoring Etiquette
To arrive at the right length of rode to let out, you add the height of the boat's bow above the water to the depth. For example, if the depth is 10 feet and the freeboard at the bow is 4 feet, the length of rode needed for 7:1 scope will be (10 + 4) x 7 = 98 feet. TIP: "When in doubt let in out" works well in anchoring.
12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor
1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor. One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor. As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best ...
Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie's Guide to Securing Your Sailboat
A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain. 4. Drop the anchor. Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.
How to anchor a boat
Reverse the boat, keeping the bow into the swell until the rode becomes taut. Drop the stern anchor and take up the five scope of bow rode. Take up the stern anchor rode until it is taut. An alternative is to take the stern anchor in the dinghy to where out 5:1 scope and then winch it taut.
Anchoring Tips
Take an Offshore Sailing School Cruising Course or Fast Track to Power Cruising Course and gain the confidence to anchor a big cruising boat with ease. Learn how to use a windlass and the proper way to anchor a large cruising boat at Offshore Sailing! We feature a variety of instructional sailing videos.
18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types
Bruce Anchor. Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings. This type of anchor doesn't have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.
Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size
N/A. Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA. You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds. So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.
How to Build Your Anchoring System
Get it wrong, and your boat could wind up on the beach in a bad blow. Ground tackle is a complete system, including the anchor itself, the rode (chain, rope, or some combination thereof, which connects the anchor to the boat), and the windlass (or other means of retrieval). Remember this: Good ground tackle can overcome poor anchoring technique ...
Selecting the Right Anchor Size
Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and ...
Boat Anchoring 101: Setting and Raising Your Anchor
Continuing our anchoring series, check out this video on lowering, setting, and raising your anchor. You'll learn important tips and techniques on how to mak...
The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors
Best Overall: Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor. Best For Holding Boat: Lewmar Claw Anchor. Best For Price: Seachoice Utility Anchor. Best For Small Sailboats: Fortress FX-11 Anchor. Best For Large Sailboats: Rocna Galvanized Anchor. These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.
Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat
Rocna Galvanised Anchor. This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag. The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.
How to Anchor a Sailboat
When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set.
How to Select the Right Type of Anchor
Plow-shaped or grapnel-type anchors, with high structural strength to sustain the high point-loads, generally work the best. These anchors include the Claw, CQR, Delta, Rocna and Supreme. Shale, clay and grassy bottoms: Bottom types like these can pose a challenge to any type of anchor. For these types of bottoms, the weight of the anchor, more ...
Sailboat Anchors
For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets. We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.
Top 10 Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024 • The Adventure Junkies
Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024. Brette DeVore. Sailing Gear. Updated on February 6, 2020. Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you've ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you'll soon learn the importance in ...
US sailing team members jump overboard as boat capsizes
Published May 6, 2024, 10:13 a.m. ET. A wild scene unfolded during the third fleet race of a practice day at the Apex Group Bermuda Sail Grand Prix this past Friday as members of Team USA went ...
Vidya Balan likens herself to a boat in her relationship with Siddharth
The boat and anchor theory is an analogy often used to describe the roles individuals play in relationships. The boat represents the partner who brings excitement, adventure, and movement to the relationship, while the anchor symbolises stability, support, and grounding. Application of the 'boat and anchor theory' to partnerships
Man, 38, arrested in connection with small boat crossings
Numbers of small boat arrivals during the first four months of the year are at their highest ever level. Some 7,167 people arrived on UK shores after travelling by small boat from the continent ...
Big Nude Boat cruise set for February 2025
Big Nude Boat cruise sailing dates and destinations: The ship departs from the Port of Miami on Feb. 3 and returns to the same port on Feb. 14. The itinerary includes stops at the Bahamas, Puerto ...
Captain sentenced to 4 years in prison after scuba dive boat fire that
A former dive boat captain was sentenced to four years in prison Thursday on a negligence conviction known as "seaman's manslaughter" after 34 people were killed in a fire that broke out on ...
Conception Captain Is Sentenced to 4 Years in Deadly Boat Fire
California Boat Captain Is Sentenced to 4 Years in Fire That Killed 34. Jerry Nehl Boylan was found guilty last year of "seaman's manslaughter" for abandoning his commercial diving ship when ...
Jumpman Jack TR 'Sail and Dark Mocha' (FZ8117-100) Release Date
Sail and Dark Mocha. $200.00. The arena is sold out. The crowd is calling. The stage is set. Lights, Camera, Jack! Designed to the exact specifications and signature style of Travis Scott, the all-new Jumpman Jack attacks every challenge life throws down. It's built for handling the raging rigors of Travis' nonstop lifestyle as an elite ...

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

The Size of Your Boat

Your Anchoring Time

The Bottom Type

Anchor Material

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

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Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

1. Choose your anchor location

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

4. Drop the anchor

5. Set the anchor

6. Secure the anchor

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

How to anchor a boat – an illustrated guide!

How to anchor a boat like a pro – the ultimate guide with easy to follow diagrams

Choosing a boat anchor

Boat anchor types

Boat anchors for sale

Where to find cheap boat anchors for sale

Budgeting for a complete anchor kit

1) The anchor

2) The boat anchor winch

3) Anchor chain or line

How a boat anchor works

Catenary and scope

How much scope

How to anchor a boat

How to anchor a boat in various conditions

Setting the stern anchor

Rigging a bridle

Setting the winch bridle

Two anchors to reducing yawing

Current changes

Wind and current

Etiquette and safety

Anchor alarms

Set it and forget it

Anchoring Tips

Request a Quote

How to Use a Windlass

How to Anchor a Sailboat

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CONTACT INFO

18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

What Makes a Good Anchor

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

CQR/Plough Anchor

Danforth Anchor