sailboats with outboard motor well

Adding a Tilt-up 9.8-hp Outboard Well to an Alberg 30

This Alberg 30 has a 9.8hp motor installed in a tilt-up outboard well. The prop is well positioned forward and low so as not to suck air in choppy water and can be tilted up for drag-free sailing. The prop aperture has been filled for low drag and improved rudder efficiency.

The Alberg 30 is one of those rare boats that has the perfect shape and dimensions for building a tilt-up outboard well in the lazarette locker with minimal modifications required. I have installed motor wells on both early and late-model Alberg 30s using either a 9.8-hp motor or a 6-hp Tohatsu, both with extra-long shaft. A benefit of using the smaller motor is that it is 35 lbs lighter, less expensive, easier to transport, and the well construction is simpler. The downside is you have less power to motor through adverse conditions, more engine noise and vibration from a single cylinder motor, and more limited thrust in reverse.

The question always arises if 6-hp or even 9.8-hp is enough for a 30-foot sailboat. That depends on your expectations and what type of sailor you are. As with everything on a boat, you need to be aware of the limitations. Top speed in calm conditions for the 6-hp motor is 5.5 knots but that drops off quickly in headwinds above 15 knots, particularly if there is much fetch for waves to build up. You could use a 20-inch long-shaft rather than the 25-inch extra-long shaft but that is not ideal because it will further reduce your speed in strong headwinds and the prop will come out of the water and suck air more easily in rough waters.

The 9.8 pushes an A30 at 6 knots or slightly more if the bottom is clean. Because of the discrepancies between inboard and outboard rated effective thrust, the 9.8 has nearly as much effective power as a typical two-cylinder inboard engine without the problems of wasted space, oily bilges, and the need either to become a proficient diesel mechanic or to bring one to your boat from time to time.

I still get a thrill each time I hoist sails on my Pearson Triton and tilt the motor up for drag-free sailing. I can relax as I sail right over those fisherman’s traps without fear of fouling a propeller. You’ll also win more races by not dragging a prop.

Alberg 30 with 9.8HP motorsailing in a near calm.

Getting started

Although I have installed 6-hp motors on both early and late-model Alberg 30s, here I describe fitting a 9.8-hp motor with an extra-long shaft to a 1968 model named Barbara J . The 6-hp outboard well is described in a separate set of instructions. Even though the bigger motor adds another 35 lbs and somewhat complicates the construction, many sailors prefer the extra power it provides to motor through more adverse conditions. I completed this project, with much appreciated assistance from my wife, while the boat sat on a trailer behind our house, but I have done other outboard wells while the boats were still in the water. With the boat in the water you have to shift weight forward to raise the waterline at the stern counter a safe distance for cutting through the hull and will need to climb into a dinghy at certain points. In any case, you need to haul out the boat at some point if you want to remove and seal the prop and close off its aperture to give less turbulence and best performance under sail.

If you have the skills it is possible to build the well with only these instructions and attached dimensioned sketches, but it will be easier and faster, with less chance of mistakes by using my full-size paper patterns kit. Email me for price ($88 as of July 2021) and availability. If you feel you are not up to the task, you might find someone like myself locally who is experienced in boat repairs that you can hire to assist you.

1. Once you have gathered your tools and materials listed below, cut out the paper patterns. Some of the patterns will be easier and more accurate to work with if you trace the paper to cardboard—you can determine that as you go.

2. Having removed the broken inboard engine and all of its accessories, begin by enlarging the lazarette hatch opening to 26 x 31.25 inches (see sketch) using a circular saw and Sawzall.

 Set aside the original hatch hinges to reuse with the new hatch. With that improved access now it’s easy to remove all the hardware attached to the afterdeck, including the mainsheet traveler and backstay chain plate. You may have old vents that should be removed and the holes in the deck glassed closed. This is also a good time to replace the original marginal 6-inch stern mooring cleats with 10-inch Herreshoff cleats. You can plug or remove and fiberglass over the old engine exhaust thru-hull fitting and cut away any hull liner on the newer version A30.

Cutting enlarged access to the lazarette.

3. Cut out the chain plate knee with a Sawzall and a metal cutting disc on an angle grinder. Then grind the inside locker surfaces with a 36-grit pad on the angle grinder to prepare the surface for epoxy and fiberglass. At this point patch the forward lazarette bulkhead with plywood and fiberglass where needed so that it is watertight from the bilge and side cockpit lockers. This ensures that in heavy weather the free-flooding area of the well does not allow water to enter other areas of the boat. If you are working with the boat in the water, doing this patch first will prevent the boat from sinking if waves come while the boat is at its mooring with the prop shaft hole cut in the hull.

4. To locate the correct slot location on the hull and transom for the motor shaft (or midsection) to pass through and then tilt up out of the water for storage or when under sail, clamp the motor to some sturdy surface such as a 2×10 clamped to the boat trailer frame or house porch rail and built a hull and transom mock-up around it of wood, cardboard, and plastic panels held by duct tape (see photo). Tilt the motor up and down and swivel side to side to simulate the correct slot shape in hull and transom. Once the motor is removed from the jig, lay the paper pattern of the hull cutout into the jig to confirm the optimum size and adjust the fit as needed, or otherwise transfer that shape to construction paper. Lay the paper pattern against the hull’s centerline to mark for cutting. By comparing the mock-up to the lazarette, confirm that the forward end of the hull hole should be 16 inches aft of the lazarette bulkhead. The thick fiberglass was tough work to cut, but I was able to get through it with a combination of angle grinder and Sawzall. No turning back now!

Forming a mock-up of hull and transom.

Motor mount jig and paper hull cutout pattern in place to mark for cutting hull.

In order to check the fit of the motor in the boat, I built a temporary jig out of plywood, lumber, and pieces of aluminum angle screwed into the hull and forward bulkhead and made some final trimming of the slot so that the motor could swivel and tilt up. But you can skip that step and wait to fit the motor until after you fiberglass the vertical side panels in and then dry-fit the motor mount board to them. Through experience building and using other outboard wells on similar boats I found that the best compromise to keep the prop well below the waterline but not have the motor head too close to the water was achieved with the height of the jig at 8 1/2 inches. Use the pattern labeled “motor mount” to make this piece.

At close to 100 lbs, the motor is awkward for even two people to wrestle in and out of the well so you may want to use a boom vang tackle to make it easy. On boats that are in the water, I extend the boom by lashing the whisker pole to it and attach the vang under that. The motor is easier to insert into the well if you first remove the prop. The prop is reattached by tilting the motor up and leaning over the transom.

Putting it all together

5. Measuring out from the centerline, place your cardboard patterns of the two longitudinal bulkheads according to the sketch, make corrections to the patterns by trimming or adding masking tape, and then trace them onto ½-inch marine plywood. Set at 26 inches apart to clear the motor when turned for side thrust, these panels serve as the inboard sides of the sealed lockers on top of which the two portable gas tanks sit. The panels are temporarily located in place by 3/4-inch stainless self-tapping screws going partway into the hull fiberglass and by wood .75 x 1.25-inch pine cleats screwed inside to the forward bulkhead. You can also use standard nominal 1×2 lumber which is .75 x 1.5 or rip them down on a table saw.

Test fitting the panels for the gas tank shelves and forward buoyancy chamber.

6. Fit the tops of the gas can shelves using the same method of cardboard patterns transferred to ½-inch plywood. Place the shelve tops 1.25-inch below the tops of the vertical bulkheads and angled down a few degrees forward and inboard to permit draining of any water to the lower part of the motor well through slots cut into the retaining lip. The shelves need to be at least 12.5 inches below the deck to allow clearance for inserting the 3.1 gal. gas tanks. The forward and inboard ends of these shelves are held in position by more wood cleats. Because the tops of the gas tank shelves are too large to fit past the vertical bulkheads, once the insides of the plywood are sealed in two coats of epoxy resin the tops are placed inside and clamped up out of the way until the vertical panels are glassed in. Then they are lowered into position and glassed in as well.

7. On my first outboard wells I glassed in each component before moving on to cutting and fitting the next panels, but it is faster if you dry fit most of the panels and then fiberglass them all at the same time as long as you allow extra clearance at the joints for fiberglass. Before applying the fiberglass, I brush epoxy resin on the surfaces and then apply epoxy thickened with colloidal silica by squeezing it out of the cut corner of a Ziploc freezer bag. Smooth the fillet with a rounded plastic spreader. The fiberglass layers go on more smoothly if done directly on top before the fillets harden.

Although they are considerably more expensive, high density fiberglass-reinforced polyurethane panels such as Coosa 20 or Baltek Airex PXc can be used instead of plywood in any areas. Cut, shape, fasten, and fiberglass over them as when using plywood, but without the need to add extra coats of epoxy and fiberglass just for waterproofing. Lighter foam boards such as 5 lb density Divinycell or Core-cell can be used to save weight but will require slightly more fiberglass and resin to obtain the stiffness required. Since even marine plywood is vulnerable to rot if it becomes waterlogged, be careful to apply at least two coats of epoxy resin to the inside of sealed locker panels, paying close attention to sides and edges and cover all exposed surfaces with fiberglass cloth. Areas that are joined to the hull are glassed in using at least three layers consisting of 2-, 4-, and 6-inch wide fiberglass tape. The motor mount board takes a lot of strain and vibration, so it receives five layers of cloth.

8. After the gas tank shelves are glassed in, insert the 1.25-inch laminated plywood transverse motor mount board as shown in the sketch and as confirmed by a line marked on the hull from the jig position and secure with screws. The 9-inch-high board was cut down ½-inch in the center as an indent to prevent the motor from vibrating out of position. Then set the motor back in to ensure adequate clearances and to get accurate measurements for the height of the lid and hatch framing. If the motor is blocked at the transom from fully tilting up, make adjustments to the motor mount board or hull cutout. If motor will not tilt high enough to engage its tilt lock mechanism, you can either shim it if this doesn’t place the shaft more than a couple degrees from vertical or by raising the top of the hull slot using a hole saw. If using a hole saw, first drill a hole in a small piece of plywood and clamp it in place as a guide for drilling the slot higher. You may have to tweak the fit again after fiberglass is finished.

The 6-hp motor only needs the framing to be 3 1/2 inches high but the larger 9.8 requires 8 inches of clearance above deck level. Instead of making the framing awkwardly tall, make it 3 inches high and then add a 5-inch raised center section of lid by laminating fiberglass and a ¼-inch plywood core inside a plastic storage bin of the correct size. If a suitable plastic bin is not available then fit 1/4” plywood panels, angled slightly out at the bases, secure with tape on one side and fiberglass the other side. Then remove the tape and glass the other side and glass the box to the lid.

I found that the motor throttle handle protruded above the motor head in the tilted-up position, so I cut one inch off the end of the handle in order to keep the hatch as low profile as possible. If you cut the rubber portion 1.5” from the end and then cut the aluminum handle at 1” you can save the rubber cap and fit it to the shortened handle using weatherstrip adhesive. After this test fit, remove the motor and glass in the motor mount.

The locker lid with cut-out is test fit around the motor.

Using a plastic storage bin as a mold for the raised center portion of motor lid.

9. The hatch support flange, or sill, consists of four pieces of ¾ x 3-inch plywood stood on edge, or you can use solid lumber. First dry-fit the two side pieces using screws from underneath.  Then set the end pieces in place, trace the deck camber on their bottom edges, cut them to fit, radius the edges, and glass all pieces inside and out. The aft sill received an additional outside framing of 1.5-inch height. That double thickness helps stiffen the deck, but to add even more support for the area that was cut out for the enlarged hatch, add a layer of ½-inch plywood under the aft center of the deck. When the teak trim is added to the lid the doubled framing gives a flush surface for installing the hinges between teak and sill. Just make sure that you leave some clearance under the taffrail flange to reach fasteners for the new external chain plate, mooring chocks, or other deck hardware.

10. With the motor in the tilted-up position, use a cardboard pattern to make two ½-inch plywood sliding boards to fit around the motor shaft and cover the transom slot. They each have a horizontal slot and a pair of 5/16-inch by 2 ½-inch flat head stainless steel machine screws countersunk from the outside of the transom and epoxied in place. Two knobs on the inside tighten to lock the boards in the open or closed position. The lower portion of the nearly circular hole in the hull is too wide to seal with sliding doors, so it gets covered by a plywood hull plug held by a wooden cleat forward and secured aft by two metal tangs on the sliding boards. The idea is not to make the hole watertight—that would be impractical—but to reduce the amount of surging water that enters when sailing in large seas and to allow the water that does enter to drain back out. The 6-hp motor has a smaller lower cowling, so the hull and transom slot is narrower and can be covered with a set of longer cover boards.

The two upper sliding cover boards and lower hull plug being sealed in epoxy resin.

11. Remove the motor one last time to construct a third buoyancy chamber between the motor mount board and the forward bulkhead. The ½-inch plywood panel is angled down to drain aft and just low enough so that the motor tension handles could be turned. Once it is glassed in place, drill 1-inch holes into the corners to allow any water that splashes over the motor mount board to drain into the motor well and back into the sea. Then add several coats of epoxy to holes to waterproof them. The plywood panel also adds significant strength to the high vibration loads on the motor mount board.

12. Cut out the ¾-inch plywood hatch lid and glue and screw strips of 3/4 x 1.5-inch teak hatch trim (or your choice of wood to be varnished or painted) to all edges. Glue the upper portion of the hatch sill board to the forward end of the hatch lid as in photo. Epoxy seal both sides of plywood. Optionally, add a thin layer of fiberglass to the top for longer lasting waterproofness against future gouges in wood but I haven’t bothered with that yet and haven’t seen any problem. Dry-fit hinges and latch.

Side view of the completed motor well with cover boards in place.

Finishing details

13. Add eye straps and wooden cleats to the shelves to secure the gas tanks. Place gas cans on shelves at forward ends and mark for locations of ¾ x 1 x 10-inch pine cleats to hold cans from sliding outboard or aft. Remove gas cans and epoxy wood cleats in place. 

14. To have future access to the sealed lockers under the gas tank shelves I fit 6-inch screw-out deck plates in the lower vertical bulkhead accessed from the cockpit side lockers. Since you no longer need access to the aft end of an inboard engine, an obvious future project would be to make the cockpit lockers watertight. Aside from protecting these areas from accidental flooding, sealing them off from the bilge means that you can more safely store fuel, including spare cans of gas for the outboard motor.

15. After sanding and fairing some of the rough fiberglass joints in the inside of the well, coat with any primer and paint but I prefer to just give it two coats of Interprotect 2000E epoxy barrier coat and leave it at that. Then sand, fair, prime and paint the afterdeck and outside modification areas with a two-part polyurethane. On the horizontal surfaces either add nonskid grit or KiwiGrip. Now or later you can repaint the entire deck nonskid for a better match.

16. The wiring from the motor’s electric start and alternator, as well as for the stern light and any solar panels, is run through a hole high in the forward bulkhead and sealed with caulking. If you are concerned about chafing you can run the wires through a cable clam, but I consider that unnecessary. A bilge pump outlet hose can be similarly run through the bulkhead with caulking to prevent leaks into the cockpit side lockers.

17. Now that the original backstay chain plate knee has been removed, fabricated a beefier replacement external chain plate from 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 12-inch stainless or bronze flat bar bent to fit over the taffrail. Keep in mind the motor lid only needs to open about 45 degrees. When you need more clearance for installing or removing the motor, the lid is removed by pulling out the hinge pins.

18. With the mainsheet traveler gone, add three-point end-of-boom sheeting tackle as seen in the materials list below.

19. Attach a tether and eye straps to prevent the hull hole plug below the sliding boards from being lost overboard during insertion or removal.

20. Add a latch for the front of the lid, rubber gasket under it, and the lid support spring. Warn all crew that the hatch lid is heavy and the spring could collapse at any time from vibration or an inadvertent bump so hands must never be allowed to rest on the frame when the lid is open or it could come down and break bones.

The 9.8-hp extra-long shaft Nissan installed in the completed well. New mainsheet tackle and 10-inch mooring cleats.

21. The motor is bolted to the mount to prevent it from vibrating out of position. Since these holes are in a wet area near the water, drill the holes oversize to ½-inch, inject thickened epoxy with a syringe, and then drill them for ¼-inch bolts.

22. The wiring from the motor’s electric starter and alternator, as well as for the stern light and two pole-mount solar panels, was run through a hole high in the forward bulkhead and sealed with caulking. If you are concerned about chafing you can run the wires through a cable clam, but I considered that unnecessary. A bilge pump outlet hose can be similarly run through the bulkhead with caulking to prevent leaks into the cockpit side lockers.

23. Although optional, it makes sense to fill in the prop aperture in the hull and rudder. This increases the boat’s performance by reducing drag and makes the rudder more effective. The aperture can be filled using foam board or laminated plywood, fiberglassed, and faired.

Performance

The 9.8 Alberg 30 outboard well has been sea trialed on numerous short passages offshore along the coast of Georgia and Florida as well as on a round-trip to the Bahamas. The performance was even better than expected, with the motor easily handling moderate waves and headwinds in ocean inlets. During a day of strong wind against tide in an inlet, the prop did briefly come out of the water a few times but not enough to force the boat to turn back. Another great feature is that these long keeled boats can be made to turn in their own length when swiveling the motor for side thrust—something that an inboard engine can never do.

In 2016, on another Alberg 30, I made a passage from Connecticut to Brunswick, GA with a 6-hp motor in a similar outboard well. We used the motor in a variety of conditions, including motorsailing 200 miles of the ICW from Norfolk, VA, to Beaufort, NC. A useful technique when encountering headwinds on any relatively underpowered sailboat is to reef the main, sheet it in tight, and motorsail in zig-zags some 20 degrees either side of the wind. With the mainsail adding drive and a steadying effect, the motor can supply enough thrust to push the boat forward at a surprisingly effective rate. On that trip we found that we averaged 10 miles per gallon at nearly full throttle. We carried extra gas cans that extended our range to 150 miles, which is more than most of us need to carry. Since there was plenty of space, the owner of Barbara J has added two more 3.1-gal gas tanks to make a total of over 12 gallons. When one tank is empty, or nearly so, we snap the fuel line onto another tank and carry on.

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A video of this project can be found at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnQU1c2qx4c

Project time and costs: approx. 90–100 hours for one person with a second person assisting as needed. This project should not be attempted until you have practiced your skills on less complex boat repairs. The motor we used was purchased second-hand for $1,100 and the other materials cost about another $1,100. Even if you purchase the motor new, the cost, excluding your labor, is significantly less than that of a new diesel engine. Even so, I don’t necessarily recommend this modification just to save money since you might be able to rebuild or buy a replacement used diesel for similar cost and less labor. But if you appreciate the simple functionality of the outboard motor solution, then the relative low cost is a bonus.

Tools: Drill with bits and countersink bit 4 1/2-inch angle grinder with metal cutting discs to cut fiberglass; backing pad and 36-grit discs for shaping Jig saw Reciprocating saw (Sawzall) Circular saw or table saw with 60 tooth carbide tipped blade 5-inch orbital sander with 80, 120 grit paper Router with ¼ and 3/8-inch round-over bits 3/8-inch forstner bit for bungs in teak hatch lid trim 1-inch and 2 ½-inch hole saws Standard tool kit (hammer, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc)

Materials: (unless otherwise specified, many of these parts are sourced locally or from various online sources such as Amazon and Ebay) Optional: Set of full-size paper patterns. Email me for price ($88 as of August 2021) and availability. New or used Nissan or Tohatsu 9.8-hp outboard motor (2021 model MFS9.8BSPROEFUL) and two 3.1 gal. gas tanks (your local dealer, or onlineoutboards.com or try this link: https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-9-8-hp-outboards/products/2021-tohatsu-9-8-hp-mfs9-8bsproeful-outboard-motor ) Scrap cardboard to trace panel patterns. (If my patterns aren’t available to you then make a mounting jig to attach motor for measuring overall dimensions and tilting angles.) Three 1 gal kits of your choice of epoxy resin and hardener, colloidal silica such as West System 406, and thickener to make a fairing compound like West Systems 407 (uscomposites.com, West Marine, etc). One 4’x8’ sheet ½” plywood (use marine ply from your supplier).  Ensure you seal all sides and edges of plywood with several coats of epoxy resin and epoxy barrier coat and cover with fiberglass cloth.) One 4’x4’ half sheet of ¾” plywood (your lumber supply). Plywood construction is easier and less expensive but if you want to save weight and eliminate any chance of water intrusion into plywood you can use 5 lb density Divinycell, Core-cell or Coosa covered in fiberglass cloth. You need to have experience using foam cores though because the core does not hold fasteners on its own and more fiberglass needs to be used so alternate construction methods beyond the scope of these instructions need to be worked out. (fibreglast.com) Approx 4 yds. x 48″ medium weight (10oz) fiberglass cloth and at least one 10 yd roll each of 2”, 4” and 6” wide fiberglass tape. Add more fiberglass if using Divinycell or Core-cell foam sheet instead of plywood. (uscomposites.com, fibreglast.com, etc). Three 3/4 x 1 x 8-foot pine or hardwood lumber Two qts Interprotect 2000E white barrier coat 2-part primer and paint as needed for repainting afterdeck One qt KiwiGrip or other nonskid paint One 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 8-foot teak hatch trim Assorted lengths between 1 and 2-inch long #10 flat head stainless sheet metal screws One stainless plate 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 12-inch for new external backstay chain plate One Moonlite Marine 0115 Big Hatch Holder spring (defender.com) Two 5/16 x 2 ½-inch flathead machine screws and four stainless washers Two 5/16-inch plastic knobs with threaded hole (mcmaster.com #5993K84). Chromed brass latch Four stainless eye straps and webbing with buckles or 1/4″ line to secure gas cans. 1/4 x ¾ x 6-foot rubber gasket 3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive West Marine Multi-caulk sealant or similar Dust masks, gloves, goggles Acetone, alcohol, rags, and paper towels 2 and 3-inch chip brushes and fiberglass roller Mainsheet tackle from Garhauer— One MS-SJ swivel jam with deck mount with 30-14US block with becket One 30-19US single block with swivel standup deck plate One 30-17US double block with adjustable shackle for end of boom

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The Best Outboard Motor for a Sailboat

The technology of sailing has remained mostly unchanged for centuries. Since learning to harness the power of wind, sailors have been transiting the world’s oceans, expanding trade routes and exploring new cultures. Although nothing more than a renewable natural resource and a single sail is needed to move a sailboat along the water, there are times when it’s important (and in our modern age, convenient) to leverage off a motor to get you where you need to go.

Like any unique piece of equipment in the world of sailing, outboard motors come in a variety of sizes with features and options to fit any owner’s needs. But of course, one size doesn’t fit all. Every boat is different – even those that come off the production line at the same time – and every owner is looking for something specific when it comes to their sailboat. From the purpose of owning the boat (blue water sailing vs. racing) to the location and impact on maintenance (cold weather vs. tropical weather), an outboard motor is just one of the many elements that will define a sailboat’s function and performance.

Whether you’re a new owner, or a veteran sailor, it’s important to know the basic components of any outboard motor . You should also have an idea of what you want your outboard motor to do for your size and model sailboat.

Table of contents

Outboard Motor Size

A larger boat doesn’t necessarily mean a larger motor. Although there are different ratings for different classes of boats, a small power plant can be more effective than a larger one. Conversely, an outboard motor can easily overpower a small boat and create unsafe conditions at high speeds. Guidelines and requirements differ between motorboats and sailboats. And while there is some overlap, these considerations apply directly to sailboats.

Engine power has to do with how much water a boat displaces. For sailboats, smaller is better. If you’re a bit of a math geek, the exact formula is 4 horsepower for every 2200lb of weight. Coupled with a propeller size, which can be determined using a propeller calculator , you’ll get a rough estimate to use as a guideline to start shopping. This is a good first step, since size is essentially a fixed variable. Though it’s worth noting for those who are buying a sailboat directly from the manufacturer, that actual weight will increase after delivery – once all other rigging and outfitting has been completed.

Physical size of your outboard motor is an important consideration and is directly related to the design of your sailboat. An outboard motor is made up of three parts from top to bottom:

• The Powerhead – Houses the engine. The bulbous part of the motor.
• The Midsection – Houses the exhaust system. Varies in length and design.
• The Lower Unit – Propellers attach to the gearbox. Submerged when operational.

Shaft length is an important design element and should be considered when purchasing a motor. A shaft that is too short will obviously prevent the propeller from being submerged in water, while a shaft that is too long will extend the propellers too far. Not only will it decrease the efficiency of your engine, it will create unnecessary drag. Know your transom length when looking at different models.

When an outboard motor is not being used, it should be stowed in its upright position. Some of the larger motors have an automated switch that will raise it out of the water, but some must be secured manually. Make sure everyone who sails with you is capable of lifting and securing the motor out of the water in case of an emergency.

Outboard Motor Power

Any kind of motor installed on a sailboat (inboard or outboard) should be viewed as a tool to help with maneuvering. Although there are some very skilled sailors out there who can sail into their slip without the aid of a motor, many harbors have restrictions that either don’t allow for the use of full sails, or there simply isn’t enough room to maneuver. A motor with both forward and reverse gears helps tremendously with docking.

While there is no exact correlation between boat length and total weight, the following is a rough guideline:

• 1-4 HP for boats up to 20’ (approximately 1000-2000lbs)
• 4-18 HP for boats between 20-30’ (approximately 2,000-10,000lbs)
• 18-34 HP for boats between 30-40’ (10,000lbs or more)

There are some things to consider when deciding how much horsepower you need or want. Location and the type of conditions you expect you’ll be sailing in is one of the biggest factors. Heavy seas and high winds typically associated with open ocean sailing will put more strain on your engine, and in some cases overpower it, whereas an engine that is heavier than needed will add unnecessary weight when racing. If you plan on motoring for long distances, consider purchasing an engine that will stand up to a lot of use.

Less HP is required for:

• Boat Design – Single hull boats made out of fiberglass require less power.
• 2-Stroke Engines – This is due to an overall lighter weight engine and higher torque.
• Diesel Engines – Diesel delivers more torque because the rate of compression is greater.
• Bigger Propellers – More surface area means more water displacement.
• Location – Motoring on lakes and rivers requires less power than open ocean.
• Distance – A smaller engine is suitable for shorter distances.

More HP is required for:

• Boat Design – Catamarans and heavier boats (regardless of size) require more power.
• 4-Stroke Engine – Engine weight and an extra step of compression yields less power.
• Gas Engines – The rate of compression for gas engines is much lower than diesel.
• Smaller Propeller – A smaller propeller displaces less water.
• Location – Open ocean, with tides and currents, will strain a smaller engine.
• Distance – Cover more distance when wind conditions are poor requires a larger engine.

Outboard Motor Cost

There is no way to quantify how much you will pay for any given motor. But there are several costs associated with owning an outboard motor that are definitely worth considering when making your purchase.

Certainly, a lager, more-powerful engine is going to be costlier than a smaller engine with lower horsepower. But as mentioned earlier, size is not necessarily a guarantee of performance and efficiency. At the same time, there’s only so much you can get out of an engine before you exceed its capability. Larger engines tend to help with resale value should you choose to sell your boat at some point, but a boat outfitted with right motor to begin with will always perform better than a motor that’s large just for the sake of it.

Factor in maintenance costs and fuel when looking at models. You want to run your engine at around 90% of its max RPMs to balance proper fuel usage and with wear and tear. Making a few calls to marine mechanics to inquire about an engine you’re interested in will give you a lot of information a sales person won’t be able to give you. The good news about outboard motors is that most of them are portable, which means you won’t have the added cost of either paying a mechanic to come to you, or having to get your boat to the yard, which usually requires help from a very good friend willing to spend all day driving and sailing back and forth.

Owning a boat requires constant care and maintenance, so a little knowledge goes a long way. While an outboard motor is not required for sailing, it’s a convenient addition that can greatly increase your enjoyment out on the water. Being patient and spending time researching engines will not only help you make the correct purchase but will help you take advantage of a great deal when it presents itself. Whether you sail the Caribbean, or race off the coast of California in a catamaran, there is an outboard motor that’s just right for you.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Lightweight and Small Outboard Motors for Sailboats

• By Ed Sherman
• Updated: April 22, 2019

When you’re facing strong winds and you need to get somewhere fast, it’s time to break out a small outboard such as an aluminum genny. A dependable outboard that has enough horsepower to get you to the racecourse and back, yet is light enough not to be a drag on your race results, is invaluable. Most racing sailors don’t need as much horsepower as they might think.

An eight-horsepower outboard, for example, will push a 30-foot, 6,000-pound boat along at 6.5 knots. Anything bigger will weigh more than 90 pounds and isn’t suitable for lifting on and off the stern. Here’s our roundup of some of the best outboard motors for sailboats, and some help in deciphering what’s right for your boat.

We focus our attention on engines available under nine different brand names. Two of the best-known names, Johnson and Evinrude, have dropped out of the small-engine end of the market as part of parent company Bombardier Corporation’s restructuring of these two companies. Currently they’re advertising the availability of six- and eight-horsepower four-stroke models in 2003. Another dropout in the mini-engine market is Suzuki. Their smallest two-stroke is a five-horsepower unit and in the four-stroke configuration, a 9.9 horsepower. Brand and corporate shuffling aside, of particular interest is whether the companies that are building nine horsepower- and-below engines have incorporated four-stroke technology into the lower horsepower range, since it’s now beginning to dominate the mid-sized and larger outboard engine market. The answer to that is yes, to a point.

Two or Four Stroke Outboards for Sailboats

Outboards are either two or four-stroke engines, and the four-strokes have definitely gained favor in recent years for several reasons: they’re quiet, they use much less fuel, and they run more cleanly. Since no oil is mixed with the fuel, the classic two-cycle smokescreen isn’t a factor. In a four-stroke, the piston reciprocates inside the cylinder four times for each power stroke (that is, each time fuel combusts). Rather than opening ports cut into the sides of the cylinder, intake and exhaust valves controlled by a camshaft allow a fuel/air mix to enter the combustion chamber with the suction created by the piston as it moves inward in its cylinder. Exhaust gases are forced out of the cylinder as the piston moves outward.

By carefully designing the camshaft, engineers minimize the amount of time that the intake and exhaust valves are both open, considerably reducing the amount of unburned fuel that exits with the exhaust stream. The end result? Fewer emissions and greater economy.

But they do have at least one distinct disadvantage for the racing sailor, and that’s weight. For example, four-stroke engines in the five-horsepower category are about 20 percent heavier than comparable two-stroke engines of the same horsepower. The good news, however, is that only amounts to between 10 and 15 pounds, depending upon the engine. Four-stroke engines cost more, also, but the improved technology may be well worth it.

If you’re totally weight and price conscious, you’ll want a two-stroke engine. But, if you think you can lose the weight elsewhere, a clean, quiet four-stroke without the hassle of mixing fuel could be the answer. In fact, Mercury/ Mariner’s newest six-horse four-stroke engines are actually 18 pounds lighter than their older two-stroke equivalents–a testament to the benefits of improved design and technology.

Environmental regulations are pushing manufacturers towards four-strokes as well. Four-strokes meet emission control standards, and US Environmental Protection Agency regulations mandate that new outboard and personal watercraft engines reduce engine hydrocarbon emissions by 75 percent by 2006. Environmentally conscious sailors should look for either a C.A.R.B. (California Air Resources Board) “very-low” or “ultra-low” designator, or a specification indicating 2006 EPA compliance.

How Much Horsepower Do You Need?

The amount of power you’ll need depends on several key factors. The first consideration is the weight of your boat. The second is the boat’s wetted surface. Full-keel boats not only weigh more but also have more surface area to push through the water. My rule of thumb here is to start with a two-horsepower engine for small centerboard and keelboats less than 1,000 pounds, and add one horsepower for every 1,000 pounds of displacement. For more exact, albeit complex formulae, I suggest The Propeller Handbook by Dave Gerr (McGraw-Hill 2001).

Compare your boat’s dimensions against what existing classes have found to work; for example, a Melges 24 at 1,650 pounds is typically rigged with a three-horsepower short-shaft engine, while a J/80 at 2,900 pounds can still squeak by with a long-shaft, three-horsepower engine. A 1,790 pound J/22, on the other hand, typically uses a four-horsepower long-shaft engine. On the larger end of boats using outboards, you’ll find the outboard version of the J/29, at 6,000 pounds, requires a 7.5-horsepower long-shaft engine.

If you are intending to do some cruising, or even long deliveries to regattas, an option that’s available on some engines is a high-thrust propeller. On larger boats, this option can save weight over a bigger engine and really make a difference when trying to punch through a strong tide or headwind. High-thrust props cost more and are less fuel efficient–but they can save weight and give you more power.

Once you’ve determined how big an engine you’ll need, the next step is to begin comparing features in the given horsepower range you’ve selected. There are nine manufacturers included in our roundup, but some of their brands are identical products with different labeling. In the smaller sizes, the Mercury and Mariner brands are identical. As for the Nissan and Tohatsu engines, Tohatsu builds them all. Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda all offer competitive products as well, but they’re all independent brands.

What to Look For in Lightweight Outboard Motors

In the small engine sizes, specific features to look for can be reduced to several key items. For some, having an integral fuel tank will be important. The smallest engines have integral tanks that hold only a quart or two of fuel–good enough for an hour or two of operation. No manufacturer lists fuel consumption because the size boat the engine is pushing and the wind and wave conditions vary widely. Compare the size of the tanks, and whether you can attach a remote tank for longer trips. The extra weight and space of a separate fuel tank will be a burden on smaller ultra-light boats.

The availability of long- and short-shaft versions in the horsepower size you need is also important. Honda for example offers 20 and 25-inch transom height (long or short shaft) right down to their smallest BF2 (two-horsepower) model. Mercury and Mariner only offer a 15-inch short-shaft version on their 3.3- and 2.5-horsepower engines. Shaft length is measured from the top of the bracket to the tip of the shaft–make sure your shaft is long enough to position the propeller and cooling water intake deep enough below the waterline to avoid cavitation when the boat pitches through waves.

Other specifications that are worth comparing are whether the engine is equipped with a simple forward and neutral gearshift or if the unit has a full functioning forward-neutral-reverse gear unit. If you’re going to be doing long deliveries to regattas, or in the larger sizes for a racer/cruiser configuration, consider whether or not a charging system is part of the engine package, and if so, it’s output. Will it be adequate to keep your battery recharged and power things like a tiller pilot and running lights? Also, on the larger engines check to see if electric starting is available, or offered as a standard feature. Having it can be the difference between pain and pleasure.

If you are racing in a strict one-design group, check any class rules that apply to outboard engines. Issues related to brackets, storage of the engine and/or alternative weight might be issues, so be sure to check with your class before making any final decision.

Ed Sherman is the author of Outboard Engines, Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repair, International Marine/McGraw Hill and a contributing editor to Sailing World.

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Transom Brackets For Small Outboards: Fulton Rates Best

In our test of eight transom-mounted brackets, the fulton was the easiest to operate. garelick's model for motors up to 20 hp earns runner-up honors, and omc's unit deserves consideration..

The most common form of auxiliary propulsion for small sailboats is the outboard motor. On some boats, it is mounted in a well forward of the transom. Such arrangements conceal and protect the motor but may not allow it to be tilted up to get the prop out of the water when sailing. More common, perhaps is the mounting of a bracket on the transom. These generally have two positions—up and down—for lowering the motor’s prop into the water, and raising it. Brackets should be strong, durable, and, most importantly, easy to operate without having to hang out over the transom.

What Was Tested We rounded up eight brackets from five manufacturers—Fulton, Garelick, Triangle, Minn Kota and Outboard Motor Corp. (OMC). Prices ranged from $95 to $380. All are manually operated, except for the electrically powered Minn Kota.

Early on we discovered that your choice depends not only on the outboard’s horsepower and weight but also on whether it’s a two- or four-stroke. We understood why weight and horsepower make a difference but weren’t sure why a four-stroke would require a special, and subsequently more expensive, bracket.

“It’s the increased torque and thrust of a four-stroke,” said Jayson Klade, a Fulton Industries technical representative. The four-stroke’s greater force imposes more stress on the bracket; therefore it needs to be stronger than a bracket for a two-stroke.

How We Tested The main criteria for evaluation was ease of use, but also considered was the ease of assembly and mounting, quality of materials, price and instructions. We noted how sturdy each bracket was by shaking the motor from side to side and fore and aft while placing the bracket in several positions—a “wiggle test,” if you will. We also measured the range of motion, or vertical distance, of each.

To test, we collaborated with our sister publication, Powerboat Reports, whose editor owns a 21′ walkaround with a large outboard; his interest was mounting a small backup “kicker.”We had a local machine shop weld up a stainless steel plate that could be bolted to his boat’s transom and used to mount the brackets.

Three motors were used—a 2000 Nissan 5-hp four-stroke, a 1980’s-era 9.9-hp Mercury two-stroke and a 1970’s 15-hp Evinrude. We hauled the boat, mounted each bracket and tried all three outboards on each one.

What Was Found The three Garelick models, the four-stroke Fulton model and the OMC bracket included 3″ bolts; the other Fulton bracket came with 2-1/4″ bolts, too short for the 2-1/2″ thick transom. This was annoying as no one likes to interrupt a project with a trip to the hardware store.

Minn Kota and Triangle included no hardware.

Instructions that came with most of the brackets were fairly good, advising where to mount them so the outboard could perform properly. Minn Kota failed to offer this information, and the Triangle came with no directions.

All but one bracket—the two-stroke Fulton—offered clearance between the motor and the bracket handle when tilted. Most used some sort of spring as its primary lifting and lowering mechanism. All except the Triangle and Minn Kota included raised strips of polypropylene or stainless steel on the mounting boards to prevent the motor from sliding off.

We were surprised that OMC and Garelick’s instructions advised that the motor be taken off before trail-ering the boat. We figured the brackets would face much more stress at sea than rolling down the highway. But representatives from both companies told us otherwise. A bump in the road can cause more damage than a large wave, they said.

“The G-forces are greater on the road,” said Dean Devore, OMC director of product development.

Only one bracket, the four-stroke Garelick, came with a safety harness to prevent the motor from sinking to the bottom if it came off the bracket.

All Fulton and Garelick models offered at least four levels to adjust outboard trim. Two of the three Garelicks—the up-to-8 hp and up-to-20 hp models—included flange-type brackets that allow you to convert the unit from a negative transom setup (an angle greater than 90°) to a positive transom (an angle less than 90°, seen mostly on sailboats). But the conversion involves swapping the brackets, reversing their position and adjusting the springs. Each of the five adjustment holes represents a 7° increment.

With most of the coil-spring models, you must be very careful while operating the bracket when it is not mounted on the boat. The force of the springs is so great that you could seriously injure yourself if you trigger the release with a finger or hand inside the mechanism. Garelick’s instructions provide several warnings; Fulton’s instructions do not.

Fulton: Two-strokes up to 10 hp We found this model extremely difficult to raise, so much so that we had to put our left knee on top of the transom and our right foot in the motor well to gain enough leverage to move it. The difficulty stems from the unit’s lack of springs and the fact that you must simultaneously push the one-arm lever aft and up, which is very awkward. Lowering the unit wasn’t much easier.

Fulton representative Jayson Klade said the company recognizes this problem and may discontinue this model because of it. He said he has had calls from older owners who have had trouble moving a 2-hp outboard on this bracket.

The unit itself is solidly built, with an anodized aluminum bracket and a polypropylene mounting board. However, the bolts used to secure this board to the bracket were rusted. We suggest replacing them with stainless steel.

This was the only bracket that presented clearance problems. The Evinrude 15’s steering arm hit the bracket’s lever handle, and the Mercury’s choke smacked it when the motor was tilted.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, mainly due to the difficulty we encountered raising and lowering the unit.

Fulton: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model, also anodized aluminum, was much easier to operate than its little brother, due to its four springs, 1-3/4″ wider stance and larger, two-arm lever. With all three engines, we needed only one hand to operate it.

However, we found two drawbacks. First, installation requires shimming (placing a 1″- to 2″-thick block of wood or aluminum between it and the transom) if mounted below the rubrail and on a flat transom, such as ours. Without a shim, the lever handle will hit the transom. In addition, shimming may require longer mounting bolts. Second, the springs obstruct eight of the 12 mounting holes, making installation more difficult. (Use a long screwdriver to bend the spring ends out of the way.) Fulton recognizes this design flaw and is working on it, said Klade.

Bottom Line: Recommended. The easiest to operate.

Garelick: Two-strokes up to 8 hp The body of this unit is stainless steel. Its four torsion springs helped us lift and lower it easily. You can also lessen the spring tension by cutting up to three of the four springs if lowering the bracket is too difficult due to the use of a light motor.

Click here to view the Transom Brackets Value Guide.

Our main complaint with this bracket was the sloppy play (fore and aft) in the up position encountered during the wiggle test. Even with its locking mechanism engaged, the bracket afforded too much play.

Bottom Line: Easy to use but its sloppy play is a drawback.

Garelick: Two-strokes to 20 hp This is essentially the same bracket as the smaller Garelick, except its longer body gives greater vertical travel, and it includes eight springs instead of four. We encountered no wobbling and found it to be even easier to operate than the smaller Garelick.

Bottom Line: Recommended. Only the Fulton four-stroke model is easier to operate.

Garelick: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model is well-made and the only one equipped with two locks and a safety harness. Unfortunately, we had great difficulty lowering all three outboards.

The motors were not heavy enough to overcome the unit’s spring-loaded tension. Garelick says it becomes easier after you get the feel for it. We never did. The company does not advise cutting the springs on this model, so we have little confidence that it will work with motors up to 15 hp. We’d only use it for heavier motors, such as those from 20 to 30 hp.

We also discovered that this unit requires shimming to be installed on a boat with a flat transom. (Like the small Fulton, we were only able to mount it because the stainless steel plate acted as a shim.) The directions do point this out: “Add a 1″ shim if the release handle is at or below the rubrail or the top of the transom.” But some of the diagrams show a successful mounting on a flat transom. This is misleading and confusing to the installer.

Note: Garelick listed the wrong telephone number in the directions. The correct number is listed at the end of this story.

Bottom Line: Recommended only for use with engines from 20 hp to 30 hp.

OMC: Two- and Four-strokes up to 15 hp Unlike the Fulton and Garelick brackets, this model operates with a gas-filled cylinder. It was easy to operate, accomplished by moving a small lever with a red handle to positions marked “raise” or “lower.” To lower, simply jerk the motor up slightly and push down; to raise, push down on the motor, and the lift unlocks and rises. However, unlike most of the others, the OMC does not have multiple positions for engine trim—only two, up and down.

“We’ve found that most people only use one level anyway,” said OM’s Devore. “Rarely do they want to change settings.” For $380, the most expensive motor lift in our group, the consumer might prefer this option. (The device’s shock alone costs about $100, according to Devore.)

Like Garelick, OMC warns against trailer travel with the engine on the boat. It goes a step further, though, advising the owner to attach a rope to the engine in “choppy water,” suggesting to us that the manufacturer is not very confident of its product. “Perhaps that could be worded better; we are just being overly cautious,” said Devore.

OMC recently introduced a larger bracket made of die-cast aluminum (the model we tested is a combination of die-cast and stamped aluminum) for outboard motors up to 125 pounds that retails for $380.

Bottom Line: Works very well, but price is a drawback.

Triangle: Up to 10 hp This unit came without hardware or directions. Its wooden mounting board is susceptible to rotting because raw wood is exposed on the inside of its four mounting holes. In addition, we couldn’t safely attach the 9.9-hp Mercury because the 7″-wide mounting board was too narrow. The circular pads of the engine’s bolts hung off the plate. With no directions, we weren’t sure whether this bracket could hold four-stroke engines. We called Triangle, and a representative ruled them out.

Another concern is the spring on this stainless steel unit; it failed to hold the weight of the Nissan and Mercury motors. We discovered this abruptly when the Nissan came crashing down after we had released the locking mechanism. Needless to say, we believe that this bracket needs a stronger spring.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, due to its weak spring, very narrow and unprotected wooden mounting board.

Minn Kota: Two- and Four-strokes up to 20 hp This was the only electrically powered (12V) bracket tested. We found installation easy, the directions simple and the motor, which turns a jack screw to raise and lower the mounting board, worked effectively.

Even though this unit is listed in the West Marine catalog, it is not intended for saltwater use, which explains the steel components (only the mounting board is anodized aluminum). Minn Kota may come out with a saltwater version in 2002, said spokesman Dave Golladay.

We thought the electrical connections were inadequate (for salt- or freshwater use), especially the two spade connectors that attach to the unit’s motor. They are directly exposed to the water.

The silicone meant to protect the motor’s housing was sloppily applied, hanging off and failing to cover certain spots.

The Minn Kota flunked our wiggle test. The two arms attached to the jack screw don’t offer enough support. We would attach a third arm—there’s room.

The jack screw is a potential problem, too, because it sticks out when the unit is up, leaving it open to be struck by the corner of a dock or other solid structure. Golladay said, “These are all very good points. We’re trying to enhance that product line. Our primary focus is trolling motors.”

Bottom Line: Not recommended. An automatic bracket is a great idea, and one we’d like to see developed, but the Minn Kota’s subpar materials and construction make it difficult to recommend.

Conclusion The Fulton four-stroke bracket is our top choice for any size outboard. It does require some shimming, but its solid construction and ease of use place it ahead of the pack.

Our runner-up, the Garelick (up to 20 hp) was extremely easy to use, and it’s $60 less than the Fulton. But it’s limited to two-stroke engines, which leads us to this point: Because four-strokes are becoming more popular, it does not make sense for manufacturers to continue producing brackets for two-stroke use only. We think it only confuses the consumer. (For instance, we’ve received reader letters asking why some motor lifts are restricted to two-stroke motors.)

Case in point: A 5-hp four-stroke does not produce as much torque as a 20-hp two-stroke, and yet the Garelick (up to 20 hp) restricts all four-strokes.

The OMC bracket was also impressive, but you have to be willing to pay. The smallest Garelick worked well, but its failure in the wobble test is a concern.

We don’t think you should consider the other models because they had, in our opinion, too many flaws.

Contacts- Fulton Performance Products, Inc., 50 Indianhead Drive, P.O. Box 8, Mosinee, WI 54455; 715/693-1700. Garelick, PO Box 8, 644 2nd St., St. Paul Park, MN 55071; 651/459-9795. Minn Kota, Johnson Outdoors, 706 Holly Lane, Mankato, MN 56001; 800/227-6433. OMC, 3225 Prairie Ave., Beloit, WI 53511; 847/689-5630. Triangle, Inc., 51 Fernwood Lane, Roslyn, NY 11576; 516/365-8143.

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i have a 19 foot sail boat with a 5 hp nissan ob. the Garelic a bracket MN 10470 (not sure of MN). The main issue is the grommets spacers corrode within 2 seasons . I sail in salt/brackish water. I complained and they gave me a discount on another one they said better modle. It did the same thing. Not sure what to get now that I purchaesed a 6 hp Tahatsu that is heavier 55lbs.

Anyone know where I can buy a gas cyclinder for the OMC bracket

Darrell, what about short shaft vs long shaft outboards? Can I use my short shaft 15 Hp Evinrude on a sailboat with a bracket?

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How to Calculate Outboard Motor Size for Sailboats

It seems so complex to pick the right engine size for your sailboat. I was done with complex calculations and tried to make it easier here.

How to pick the right outboard motor size for your sailboat? To get the right amount of horsepower needed to efficiently propel a sailboat, divide the displacement of the boat (in lb) by 550. You need approximately 1 HP per 550 lb of displacement or 4 HP per 2200 lb. Most sailboats don't need a motor with more than 30 HP.

In this article, I'm talking about small outboard engines for sailboats. We're talking about displacement hulls here, so in other words: keel boats. They need more power than flat bottoms.

But they're not powerboats - so it's not our mission to go fast. It's our mission to get decent speed, good control over the boat, and the best possible fuel efficiency. Without breaking the bank of course.

On this page:

How to pick the right motor size, other factors that are important for size, why is the right motor size important, is there a max hp for sailboats, in conclusion, related questions.

Sailboats need way smaller engines than powerboats. That's great news (unless your ultimate goal is speed), because it's cheaper to buy, cheaper to drive, and cheaper to maintain.

The amount of power you need is related to the hull displacement of your boat.

I like to use the simple formula:

HP = displacement (lb) / 550

So 1 HP for every 550 lb displacement, and 4 hp per 2200 lb.

Here, HP is the amount of horsepower you need to reach the maximum hull speed. This is in optimal conditions. So you have smooth water, no windage, a clean and polished hull, and so on.

If you want to get it absolutely right, you also need to correct for propellor size. And of course, a lot of other factors come into play (more on that later). But generally, these engine sizes will work with the following weights:

That sounds about right to me. But remember that these are all rough estimates: I just try to give you a ballpark figure. There is no one formula to get an exact number. The hull design, sailing conditions, and your personal preference are all very important.

If you're serious about getting a new engine, I definitely recommend to get advice from an expert . But you know, salespeople always recommend the Turbo version. Remember that you don't have to overpower a sailboat. Usually you don't need anything over 30 HP. So at least you now know what will work on average.

What is hull displacement?

• Hull displacement is the weight of the boat, or the amount of water the boat displaces.
• Maximum hull displacement is the weight of the boat when it's fully loaded, including crew.

The weight of the boat is the same as its displacement, because the weight of any object is exactly equal to the weight of the water it displaces (aka: pushes aside). This is called Archimedes Principle.

The weight slightly differs in saltwater from freshwater, because saltwater is heavier. In saltwater, the boat gets a bit lighter. So in theory you can use a smaller engine for a bluewater boat, but in practice this is offset by the stronger current and wind.

How to find the displacement of your boat?

Most manufacturers simply give you the displacement of your boat. If you can't find any data, because, for example, you own an old boat, you can weigh your boat on a truck scale. You can also haul it out and measure it (which is painstaking work).**

Tip: if you're gonna weigh your boat, simply drive it onto a truck scale, and retract the weight of the trailer from the total weight.

Of course, it's not so simple. This formula gives a rough estimate. But for me this was way clearer than all that black magic that I get when I ask people what size engine I should get.

Let's look at the things this formula doesn't take into account.

2-strokes are more powerful than 4-strokes. Two-stroke engines fire once every revolution and four-strokes fire once every other revolution. This makes the 2-stroke twice as powerful. They provide more torque at a higher RPM. But they also wear more quickly. The 4-stroke will last you a lot longer, and its also more fuel efficient.

The right propellor size is just as important as having enough horsepower. With a smaller prop diameter, it has to work harder to generate the same propulsion as a larger diameter. But you can't just go larger always. The prop affects the RPM of your engine, and you have to get in the right range (more on this later). You also have to check the maximum diameter that fits your boat.

Diesels have more torque, because the compression rate is higher than that of gasoline engines. So if you consider a diesel, you can do with less HPs.

High windage hulls (multihulls) need a bit more. A multihull (or larger hull in general) suffers from more friction because of the larger surface. So the engine needs to work a little harder.

If you sail longer distances under power , or against the wind it's a good idea to get a larger engine (but not too large). This helps you to save on fuel since you have lower RPM. Especially if you sail offshore or on open sea. The engine needs to work harder due to stronger wind and current.

If you're just sailing in and out of the marina under power, you may need less HP.

Smooth hull designs need less HPs than bulky hull designs, like the classic wooden clippers and crabbers for example.

It matters to get the right size outboard motor for a couple of reasons.

First of all: smaller engines are cheaper, so you save money on buying the engine.

Secondly: smaller engines use a lot less fuel, so you save money on using the engine.

Thirdly: smaller engines are cheaper to maintain: so you save money on maintenance.

So why not get the smallest engine and get the best fuel economy? There are a couple of advantages to getting a (slightly) bigger engine:

• More power means more control (easier to stop the boat, in case you need to)
• Finding the sweet spot might actually reduce fuel consumption

The sweet spot

To perform optimally, an engine should get up to speed. The problem with an overpowered boat is that the engine won't rev up to 80 - 90% of the RPM. This kills fuel efficiency and also the cooling system won't operate optimally.

• The optimal cruising RPM of the engine is about 85-95% of the maximal RPM
• You should reach cruising RPM at hull speed, so your engine should be at about 90% RPM

The propeller size is very important for the RPM. If your prop diameter is too wide, the engine can't get up to speed and struggles to build power. Bad for fuel economy, bad for the engine, and bad for performance.

On the other hand, if your prop is too small, you don't make use of the engine's full power.

If you struggle to get to high RPM, your prop is too large. If your engine is constantly in the red, you're underpropped.

So don't go too big on the prop, but also don't go too small. The easiest way to get it right is to check the engines manual and see what the manufacturer recommends.

You can definitely go too big on a sailboats engine. An overpowered yacht doesn't make any sense. True, it can look cool, but it can't feel cool. Every displacement hull has a maximum hull speed. That means that it cannot go any faster than the max speed. So if your engine can cruise at that speed, it's not getting any better.

The problem with displacement hulls is that they displace the water, or in other words: they push the water in front of them. They cannot move any faster than they can push away the water. And because the resistance increases as speed increases, there's an absolute, physical speed limit for each keelboat.

That's why powerboats have to get out of the water to reach top speed.

Fun fact: the longer your boat, the higher the hull speed. Want to know the maximum hull speed for your boat? You can find it in this article .

So, you can't go faster than your maximum hull speed, so a 50+HP engine is kind of ridiculous. Bear in mind that a large engine also has the following disadvantages:

First of all: larger engines are more expensive, so you spend more money when buying the engine.

Secondly: larger engines use a lot more fuel, so you spend more money when using the engine.

Thirdly: larger engines are more expensive to maintain: so you spend more money on maintenance.

Also, if your engine is too big, it doesn't reach the optimal cruising RPM, so your fuel economy also gets really bad FAST.

I suggest getting the smallest possible engine that gets you to maximum hull speed while it's at roughly 90% of the RPM. As long as it gives you enough control and good handling, it will get you there. If you give up on going fast, you can actually get really good fuel economy and your engine will last you probably 20 years.

If you want to go fast, a sailboat is not the right one for you. You should instead get a powerboat.

I'm just kidding. Read my 13 Reasons Why Sailing is Better Than Powerboating here .

Do sailboats have motors? Most sailboats are power assisted boats, which means they have a small auxiliary engine to cruise in light air. When a sailboat is sailing under engine power, it is considered a motorboat and it doesn't have right of way.

Thanks for answering my questions.

Taylor Bishop

Thanks for explaining how you can figure out what size you need for an outboard motor. You mentioned that you should find the displacement by weigh a boat on a truck scale. I’m interesting to learn if you need to regularly weigh it in case the hull displacement could change or if it will always be consistent.

Shawn Buckles

Hi MitI, you’re welcome, my pleasure.

Hi Taylor, my pleasure.

You don’t need to weigh your boat regularly, as the hull displacement will stay consistent. You could literally see the hull displacement as the amount of space your hull takes up in the water. So as long as you don’t make any major changes to the hull shape or ballast of your boat, you should see no differences in displacement.

Roger S Johnson

How do you measure for shaft size, most outboard motors are for flat bottom and say measure to the bottom of the boat, most sailboats tapper to the aft. Where do you measure for a tapered bottom sail boat?

Will a 5 horse Honda 4 stroke be ok for a 25 foot Pearson Commander sail boat. Thanks for your time Luke

I think it would be Luke.

Great post, thanks for the info. A naive question from a soon-to-be sailor: I’m considering buying a 28 ft sailboat, with 2500 kg (ca. 5500 lbs) displacement. The engine is in pretty good condition, but is old and the original one (from 1977!), so I am also thinking of an alternative scenario in which it fails. I know that in my area replacing an inboard engine will cost double the price I’m putting down for the boat, and since I’m on a budget, that simply won’t be an option and outboards seem to be cheaper. So the question is: is it possible to put an outboard engine on all boats? Is there some factor that would make it impossible to mount an outboard engine on the boat? Thanks!

Garth Powelson

What is minimum length that a sailboat can go without an outboard. Does a 29’ “require by law” to have engine?

Hello Mr. Buckles, Thanks for the informative article. I’m looking to get the smallest possible outboard for my 1.5 ton displacement fiberglass monohull Hood 23’ sloop. Can I get away with a 4HP?!? What size prop would I need?!? (I’m only going to use it when there is NO wind, and, if I can stay 4HP or below, I am not required to register my vessel—which is pretty cool, so here’s hoping!)

Thanks again, Ship

Hi, I’ve got a older Pearson 39’ . I’m looking to remove the old 40 ho westerbeke and go electric. Unsure of what hp is going to be needed?

emilio h javier

i am purchasing a catalina 22 ft. i have in mind a 4 HP motor. what would be the length of the shaft.

I am considering buying a 25 ft sailboat with a 7200 lb displacement. The boats top speed is listed at 7knots per hour but the diesel motor does not work. The owner has a 9.9hp outboard that can be purchased with the boat. Is 9.9hp enough to power the boat to at least 5 to 6 knots per hour? Thanks. Rick

What weight outboard would be too much for a 20’ Santana, displacement 1,350 lbs? I don’t want too much weight at the back. I want the boat to be seaworthy.

I have not seen this amount of BS in years :) I’m not a marine engineer, yet physicist & avation engineer. You even can’t tell the difference between mass of the vessel and diplacement :D Fcking genius.

Leave a comment

You may also like, what’s the life expectancy of a marine diesel engine.

Being a fan of the waters, I found the life expectancy of marine diesel engines an interesting topic to deeply research. I went on and on and I couldn’t stop …

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Outboard in well

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Ok. I'm the proud owner of a 1963 sailmaster 22. I love this boat. I don't love the outboard set up. I've got a 4 hp yamaha tucked into a well in the lazarette. This motor really doesn't push the boat much faster than 3 knots but I can't imagine a much bigger motor fitting. Any other sailmasters out there to make suggestions? Also keeping the outboard in the water creates lots of weed growth. I've thought about hanging a bracket off the transom but the boat is so pretty without that. Do others with wells pull the motor out when not in use? I'd love to be one of those purists who have no motor (maybe just a yuloh and a smug expression) but I have three kids and a job, so in order to fit sailing in, sometimes I have to start the motor and get back to the mooring.  

Wow, at 3700 pounds that's a heavy 22' boat. Still, it seems like 4 hp should drive you faster than 3 knots. My 22' boat weighs about 2300 pounds and my (approx) 1.5 hp trolling motor will get me almost to 4 knots. Maybe someone who knows something about props could chime in. I know that can affect a lot. Kind of like driving in the wrong gear.  

Don't know your boat, but I do have two ideas that might work to get the motor out of the water: Iv'e seen people rig a hoist over a motor well to pull the motor out of the water when the boat is at the dock. Iv'e also seen people cut out the motor well into the transom, so that the motor can be tilted out of the water, or nearly so, when underway and not using the motor.  

The Tbird design had a lazarette mounted outboard.. it had enough space to tilt up into the lazarette and even had a cover plate to fill the (elongated) hole while sailing.. quite a clean setup. But they also had a tether on the tiller on one side to avoid turning the rudder into the propeller when powering..... I think Bob Perry's Flying tiger has a well-mounted motor, but it lifts clear into the hull when sailing. Clearly these kinds of solutions have to be thought out at the design stage.  

On my Columbia 26 used to pull the 9hp 2 cycle motor out of the well and store in a cockpit locker. I was young and strong but wasn't that big a deal to make the shift to and from the locker/well even with seas running.  

Hey Roverhi. I also had a Columbia 26. It was the MKI. That was the boat that I cut out the transom to make the motor well larger. It took a bit of cutting, and a bit of fiberglass work. It was a great modification - never had a problem. I got tired of putting it in the cockpit locker! It was a great boat, comfortable, seaworthy and great for our small family (two babies at the time). We used to sail that boat all over Monterey Bay. We were berthed in Moss Landing, and later in Santa Cruz. Have a lot of fond memories of that boat.  

Mine was a Mark II version. Don't have fond memories of the boat but do of the sailing I did on it. Sailed to all the Islands except Hawaii from Honolulu and met my wife because of it.. Had so many good times in various anchorages that I purposely haven't gone back to some for fear of sspoiling the memory. The boat was a pain to sail in the strong winds and square waves of the channels. It pounded badly, leaked like a sieve, and the rudder would often stall creating spectacular round ups. In its favor, sailed that boat more than most of the other boats I owned largely because I was so broke paying for it that I couldn't afford to do anything else but go sailing.  

I'll offer the unpopular opinion... Pull the outboard out. glass up the hole. Gain a lazarette. Meanwhile, bite the bullet and mar that transom with a tilting outboard bracket... presently that outboard is dragging you slow like a sea anchor under sail, add a bunch of jungle growth to it, and you might as well not have a sailboat.  

Had a small cape dory with this set up. It’s stinks. Engine would go under water in rough conditions and then not start. Would suggest getting a light 2 stroke. (Send a friend or better yourself to a country that sells them). You can then pull it out in the nasties. If you have the bucks and are just daysailing the boat the larger torqeedo May work fine. I never could figure out what to do with the cape dory and ended selling the boat for this reason.  

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Snorri you mention lots of weed growth on the outboard. How does your hull look? Moderate to significant growth on your hull creates a ton of drag. Enough drag to drop you down 1-2 knots in hull speed.  

That?s a fair question waterrat. I?ve hit the hull with a long handled scrub brush from the dinghy three times over the summer. I think it?s not perfect but ok. I?ve also cleaned the motor several times but I?t is annoying. For my last long sail (long for me, 24 nautical miles) I did just pull the motor. No locker big enough so I set I?t on the cabin sole. Didn?t have to drag a weedy prop behind me all the way. Maybe that?s the only good solution for the time being. Keeping I?t out of the well when at the Mooring should keep I?t perfectly clean. Just adds to the getting underway process if I can?t sail off the mooring. Appreciate all of the thoughtful input.  

Yikes! That's a lot of crap to drag along. Probably explains your slow problems. If slowness still persists, I'd suggest contacting a Yamaha dealer and see if they can get you a prop suited to a displacement boat. Most small OB's are not propped correctly for sailboats (except the Tohatsu SailPro motors). A high thrust prop makes a huge difference, especially in reverse.  

I had a small boat similar to yours with a motor in the well. Short story is that I loved it. For a small boat a 5hp outboard should have no problems getting you to speed, and is much easier to maintain (or replace) than an inboard. Having it in the well meant it was easy to operate singlehanded while also steering the boat. Best part of all, I was able to turn the motor in the well and use it like a bowthruster - making tight maneuvers easy in my long keel boat. Hanging it off the back, the motor will be difficult to access as you are motoring, and can cavitate out of the water. It also looks horrible. I regularly pulled mine out of the water when at the slip, and I had a Tohatsu with the high-thrust prop.  

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Backyard Dory

Backyard boatbuilding and other adventures.

I’m getting old and can only row so far for so long. My two daughters, Samantha and Allie, haven’t ever rowed anywhere before. Because of this, we decided to cut a giant hole in the bottom of our beautiful boat so we can install a small outboard. This step of the build was certainly the most nerve-racking. We put so much effort into ensuring the boat was built tight and leak-free; what sane person would cut a giant hole in a perfectly good boat?!

Alas, we were determined to have outboard power for our dory. So we schemed a way to add a motor well. Before doing so, however, I scoured the internet for the best way to install a motor well, focusing on sizes, locations, depths, etc. It was obvious from my research there are two motor well camps: those that find them useful and those that don’t. During my searches, I came across side-mount outboards, which seemed like a good idea, but I was concerned because the waters where I’m going to use the boat will get relatively rough and I didn’t want to have a 40 pound outboard hanging over the side of the boat. I liked the idea of having the boat inboard the hull, on centerline, and easily reachable.

As such, I bought an outboard. I figure this 3.5 horsepower Tohatsu will be more than enough power, and it was just a few bucks more than the 2.5 horsepower and the same engine that just rev’s higher, so I splurged. At 40 pounds, I can easily move it around, so it seemed like a fitting choice. I wanted to have an outboard with a larger external fuel tank, but seeing as I won’t have to run it at full throttle, I imagine the small internal tank will last me long enough between refueling.

The next decision was whether or not to build a motor well that allowed the outboard to kick up into the well. I toyed with the idea, but in the end, my dory just seemed too small to take up so much space with a kick-up outboard well, so I didn’t build it that way. Plus I figured my dory won’t go faster than about 4 or 5 knots, so even if I run into something submerged or hit a shallow bottom, I’m not going to break anything (other than maybe a plastic propeller that I can easily replace). So I kept the motor well simple: a squarish hole in the bottom of a perfectly good boat with raised sides that kept the water out and the outboard supported.

Having the outboard on hand really helped this process, and I pulled measurements directly from the motor as I progressed. The design plans I had did not have specific well measurements, so I was truly building from scratch at this point. Not a huge deal and it was easy to piece things together as I went along. This outboard spins 360 degrees, so I made sure that I took measurements with the outboard in a multitude of positions so that I had enough clearance to spin it in a full circle. That made for a little larger of a well than if I didn’t use a 360 degree spinning outboard (i.e. used one with reverse gear), but not too much larger.

I decided to put the outboard just behind the fourth frame of the boat. Aesthetically, it seemed like the best spot, so I went for it. Measuring carefully, I transcribed the dimensions I needed from the actual outboard onto pieces of plywood that would serve as the sides of the motor well. I decided to make the back of the motor well at an angle in order to minimize the amount of water that either splashes or plows its way up the backside of the well.

Once the two plywood side pieces were cut, I sanded them as one unit so they were exactly the same. The last step for the sides was to make sure the bottom curvature of the boat, or rocker, was accurately transcribed onto the bottom edge of these side pieces. With the rocker roughly drawn to shape, I cut and sanded the bottom portion of these side pieces so that they conformed to the rocker on the bottom and sat level and plumb at the top.

With the side pieces in position based on my end-to-end measurement of the outboard’s lower unit as it rotated through 360 degrees, I spaced the side pieces appropriately and drew the lines onto the bottom of the boat that marked the hull cut that would soon be the opening for the motor well.

I can tell you that I sat and stared at these lines for some time before I even plugged in my saw. Then I measured them again just to be sure. Then I broke out the saw. And then I measured them again!

And the moment of truth was upon me. Time to cut a giant hole in the bottom of my perfectly good dory. I utilize a jigsaw and an oscillating saw to carefully cut along my markings. Drumroll please…

With the drama of the hole being cut behind me, I pressed on with the installation of the motor well. Using spacer pieces of scrap lumber and several clamps, I positioned the motor well sides into place and made measurements for the front and the back pieces of the well. Once measured, I cut them out, sanding them to fit, and readied them for installation.

With the front and back pieces ready to be installed, I applied them, one at a time, bedding each in a solid mix of thickened epoxy. Once the epoxy set, I removed the temporary bracing and the motor well was complete!

I ended up adding a 2×4 to the front of the upper edge of the motor well so the outboard had a little more substance to bite into when I tightened down its mounting screws. You can see the addition in the pictures below when I test fit the outboard. It ended up fitting perfectly and I can only imagine the smile on my face finally having my mechanical oar in place! Yes, I did sit in the boat with the motor installed and made motorboat noises!

With a finished motor well, it was time to finish the fiberglass work and then paint the inside of the boat ! Click each area to see how Elizabeth Lynn ends up!

4 thoughts on “Motor Well”

Hi Kevin, I have a client that wants a motor well in his Nova Scotian 4.9 Grand Banks Dory I came across you building blog and you have done it successfully, I will be fitting a Suzuki 2,5 Hp Is there any possibility for you to send me your dimensions and angles of your well. I enjoyed looking at your build you have some good techniques. Kind regards Paul

Doesn’t appear to have room to tilt up the prop!

Tom – you are correct! No room to tilt up the prop; I didn’t want to take up any more space than I had to inside the boat. My solution was to get an outboard that only weighs 40 lbs. If I need to move the motor, I simply unscrew the transom clamps and pull the motor out of the well and into the boat! Pretty easy and has worked well.

Paul – I’m not sure if you will ever check this again since it has been almost 2 years since your comment, but if so, please reach out again and let me know the best way to send you the information you requested!

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Electric Sailboat Motor: Range, Cost, Best Kits for Conversion

Today, owning a completely green sailboat has been made possible with electric sailboat motors.

Imagine cruising with the silence of an electric sailboat motor and the ease of use with a simple press on the start button. What’s better is there are no exhaust fumes at all with significantly less maintenance.

It’s so appealing that a lot of sailing liveaboards have made their electric sailboat motor conversion.

However, some sailors are still on the fence, worrying about the range and price of the electric sailboat motor.

If you are one of them, you are in the right place!

This post will guide you through every aspect you need to know about electric sailboat motors to help you make an informed decision.

Besides, you will get professional insights on how to make the electric sailboat motor conversion for your own boat and learn the best electric sailboat motors (with honest reviews).

Table of contents:

• Electric Sailboat Motors: Confusion Explained

Electric Sailboat Motor or Combustion Motor

• Electric Yacht Motor Conversion: Two Solutions
• How to Size an Electric Sailboat Motor

Best Electric Sailboat Motors (with Reviews)

Electric Sailboat Motor: Confusion Explained

Can you go cruising with an electric sailboat motor? Can you put an electric motor on a sailboat? Are there any limitations?

Whether electric sailboat motors are a good fit for your boat is not a YES or NO question. Here we will explain your top worries with statistics and facts. That way, you can make a wise decision according to your situation.

You may hear some complaints about the batteries and range of the electric propulsion.

However, their experience may not suit electric sailboat motors.

In fact, even small electric engines work pretty well in many sailboats. That’s because most of the time, the wind can power the boat, and the motor is just used for docking or in rare times when there is no wind.

Therefore, it makes more sense to learn electric sailboat motor performance in real-world applications.

Here is a test report of a 3 HP electric sailboat motor on an RS21 racing sailboat:

As you can see, the small electric sailboat motor can run at 5.5 mph top speed for one hour continuously.

And there is a big difference in terms of range vs speed for electric sailboat motors:

If you lower the speed, the range and runtime can be greatly extended. The slower you go, the further you’ll get. For example, if you cut your speed in half, the electric sailboat motor can last 7 hours and go 20 miles within one charge.

That’s pretty sufficient if you use the electric yacht motor mostly for docking or as an auxiliary engine.

Faster top speed (and more range) is available with higher power electric sailboat motors depending on your specific requirements. Contact a specialist to design your electric sailboat motor solutions.

Also, don’t forget to get the electric sailboat motor with regeneration (See recommendations below).

That’s to say, when there is a lot of wind and you’re moving rapidly via your sails, they regenerate and store electric power on the batteries to keep you moving at other times. Solar recharging is also a plus.

Essentially, the range depends on how many batteries you have, so it’s not a limitation of electric sailboat motors but energy and batteries.

If you are still worried, you can offset this by getting a diesel generator, which is more efficient than a diesel engine. And it is a range extender when you need it, but for 90% of your motoring that you don’t need the range, you can rely on the electric sailboat motor.

Some of you might be concerned about the extra weight of the batteries.

In fact, an electric sailboat motor with lithium batteries weighs less than a diesel engine, particularly if you include the fuel weight.

If you want a lightweight electric sailboat motor solution, make sure you get one with LiFePO4 batteries . Compared with other marine batteries, they are more compact in design with much less weight and higher energy density.

Some more advanced electric motors for small sailboats (such as Spirit 1.0 Evo) feature an integrated lightweight battery. So you don’t need to worry about the complex wiring to hook it up or extra space to store the battery.

This is a huge plus if you want to use the electric sailboat motor on a tender or dinghy.

Here is also a chart that collects the weight of some popular electric sailboat motors for your reference:

For many people, another big problem with electric sailboat motors is the cost.

It’s true that a gasoline outboard with similar power is a lot cheaper to buy. However, the electric sailboat motor eventually wins in long-term operating cost. That’s especially the case if you are going to do a lot of motoring.

Electric sailboat motors save on fuel and maintenance costs, which can build up to a large amount over time.

Here is a chart that compares the cost of a 3HP electric sailboat motor (coming with a built-in battery) with its combustion counterpart:

That’s to say, you will cover the price difference for electric yacht motors eventually as long as you use it long enough. Click to check the details of the calculation .

What makes the electric sailboat motor even more worthwhile is it saves you a lot of hassles, especially for sailors who only use the engine in and out of the harbor. Dealing with the maintenance of the gas outboard for a 10 minute motor out of and into the harbor is disproportionate and painful.

*The higher horsepower electric sailboat motor may be different in terms of the cost calculation. Check out the outboard motor pricelist by HP for more information.

As you may have already noticed, electric propulsion has already been widely used in the marine industry:

It’s quiet while motoring, clean to handle, environmentally friendly, with less maintenance and operation costs.

The electric sailboat motors are easier to use with dramatically fewer moving parts to break and no worries about being a diesel mechanic to deal with the hard pulling start. You can have it always on, so it is ready whenever you need it.

And it makes even more sense in sailing applications:

You don’t really need to motor much if your plan is to actually sail. If you are completely becalmed, you will probably just need to motor at 2 knots to keep making way, which is easy for electric sailboat motors.

If you mostly use the motor to get into and out of the harbor, the electric sailboat motor also works great for you.

You can always charge up at the dock, motor out of the marina (or even motor to your sailing area or race start), then hoist the sails and when you’re through, the batteries are charged again.

The electric sailboat motor is also useful as a backup (kicker) motor in case your system goes down. That’s why you can see people pushing a lot of big boats with small electric motors. (Click to learn more information about kicker motors .)

Personally, it’s really nice to have an electric auxiliary in the boat – no smelly, messy diesel and motor oil to deal with, a much simpler system with less maintenance, and much, much quieter operation.

However, powerboats tend to have much higher requirements in terms of both power output and runtime. In that case, an electric sailboat motor can be hard to satisfy your needs.

How Do You Size an Electric Motor for a Sailboat?

As a rule of thumb, you will need approximately 1 HP per 550 lb of the displacement of your boat.

Generally speaking, a 3 HP electric sailboat motor can push a sailboat up to 25 ft and a 9.9 HP motor is sufficient for a 30 ft sailboat to motor at a satisfying speed.

However, bear in mind the horsepower you need always depends on your needs and applications.

It’s better to check the data from real-world tests to decide whether the electric sailboat motor is suitable for your specific needs.

For example, the 9.9 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 6.0 allows you to go at 6.9 mph (11.1 kph) on a 30 ft sailboat, and the range can be extended to 46.4 miles if you decrease your speed to 2.9 mph (4.6 kph).

Click to see more test reports with other electric motor and sailboat combinations, and find the electric sailboat motor that suits you best.

If you are still not sure about the size of the electric sailboat motor for you, feel free to leave us a comment and we will get back to you ASAP with professional suggestions.

Electric Sailboat Motor Conversion

Basically, there are two ways for you to convert your sailboat to a clean and quiet electric drive system:

You can either convert your current vessel to electric or buy an engineless yacht and install an electric sailboat motor on your own.

#1. Repower Your Sailboat with Electric Motor

If you decide to replace the diesel engine with an electric motor, you will need to do a lot of preparations:

The DIY approach requires an electric sailboat motor kit (including motor and controller), batteries, a good level of mechanical ability and basic electrical knowledge, as well as some common tools such as a voltmeter.

You will need to take the old engine out for the new electric sailboat motor installation. It’s not an easy task that involves removing the engine mounts and the drive shaft (dealing with the numerous hoses and cables), taking out the engine, exhaust system, fuel tank, and its attendant tubes, etc.

Remember to balance the boat to avoid listing during the electric sailboat motor conversion.

Then in with the new electric sailboat motor. The installation process can be straightforward if you choose the electric sailboat motor kit wisely (See steps below). Furthermore, you can set up solar charging for your electric sailboat motor with solar panels and charger.

Many sailors have recorded their electric sailboat motor conversion process and experience. Be sure to check them out to get some inspiration. For example, Ed Phillips has documented everything which can serve as a guide for newbies to get started.

Mind you there can be a whole heap that can go wrong in designing and maintaining the electric sailboat motor systems. You really need to be totally on top of it if you want decent performance or reliability.

If you are not that technically inclined, it’s better to talk to a specialist first to discuss your plan for a smooth electric sailboat motor conversion.

#2. Install an Electric Motor in a Sailboat

If you own an enginless sailboat, the electric sailboat motor conversion is much easier for you.

All you need to do is to find a reliable electric sailboat motor and install it in simple steps. The whole process can be easily done, even for beginners. Here we take the popular 6 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 3.0 as an example to show you the installation process:

• Step 1 : Rotate the clamps or use the screws to fix the outboard onto the sailboat.
• Step 2: Mount the steering system in the proper position.
• Step 3: Install the tiller on the electric sailboat motor.
• Step 4: Connect the batteries to the electric sailboat motor system.

Click to check the video tutorial that guides you through each step of the installation.

If you are worried about aesthetic issues and want higher horsepower options, an electric inboard motor can be a better suit for your sailboat. If you prefer an inboard motor for your sailboat, contact our OEM team to get an electric propulsion solution tailored to your needs.

Note : You might find some electric trolling motors rated by #s of thrust on the market. Actually, those electric trolling motors for sailboats can only provide limited speed and range. If you are heading into the wind, the trolling motors for sailboats are definitely not an ideal solution.

Once you’ve evaluated if electric sailboat motors are right for you, there are a lot of options for electric systems.

Here are some popular electric sailboat motors with positive reviews from customers worldwide. Fast charger is available for all the models recommended to reduce your charging stress.

#1. 3 HP Spirit 1.0 Evo

If you are looking for an electric motor for a small sailboat, be sure to check out the ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo. It’s suitable for large daysailers or small cruising sailboats under 25 ft.

With the Spirit 1.0 Evo electric sailboat motor, you can go 5.5 mph (8.8 kph) at top speed on the 21 ft RS21 sailing boat, or troll for 20 hours continuously at 2.2 mph (3.5 kph) according to our test .

This electric sailboat motor with regeneration allows you to recover energy from the prop while under sail. It will start to generate power automatically when the sailing speed reaches 2 knots.

As an electric auxiliary sailboat motor, it can also be easily installed on your tender boats or yacht dinghies since it’s portable and easy to transport (with a lightweight integrated battery).

Features You Will Love:

• Come with the industry-first hydrogeneration capability
• Direct-drive technology makes it maintenance-free
• Portable with a 1276Wh large integrated lithium battery for long range
• Safety wristband keeps you safe in case of MOB
• Digital operation keeps you informed of the battery status

Spirit 1.0 Evo Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“Great weekend with my 17′ sailboat powered by the Spirit Evo. This is great. Quiet and reliable. Went at 3/4 throttle for about 1.5hrs when taking it back to boat ramp.” – Robert Taylor

“Very happy with our Spirit Plus. Pushing our Kolibri 560 a 750 Kg sailboat, with ease. Doing about 5.8 km/h at 500W.” – Frank van Asten

#2. 6HP/9.9 HP Navy Evo Series

If you want a little more juice on the electric sailboat motor, check out the ePropulsion Navy Series. It offers 6 HP and 9.9 HP models for your selection and it provides sufficient power for sailboats up to 30 ft.

According to our test , the 6 HP electric motor Navy 3.0 can push the Catalina 25 sailboat (25 ft) at 6 mph (9.6 kph) top speed, while the Olga 33 sailboat (33 ft) can go at 7.5 mph (12 kph) with the 9.9 HP Navy 6.0 motor.

The Navy series electric sailboat motor also comes with regeneration features which can be recharged with hydrogeneration, wind turbine, and solar panel.

• Four controls to fit your sailboat installation and your boating style
• Accompany LiFePO4 batteries (need separate purchase) are more energy efficient
• Digital display offers real-time monitoring of the power and battery
• Magnetic kill switch and safety wristband keep you safe on the boat
• Electric start saves you trouble pulling the cord to start

Navy Series Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“I have a Navy 3.0 with E80 on a Catalina 25 sailboat. It is working well. Currently I am using about 4% battery to go in/out of the marina by boat.” – Aaron Young

“Just finished my 8 weeks sailing journey in the Baltic Sea. The two Navy 3 outboards provide enough power for my 33ft catamaran. The 400W solar panels provided enough energy for engines and all other energy consumed on board with 2-6 persons. The two Navy Batteries provide power for engines and all other on-board electric devices. I never had to use shore power, so totally self-sufficient electric system.” – Martin Hildebrand

Recent Posts

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ePropulsion Launches New Business Unit – ePropulsion Commercial

Outboard Motor Battery: What Size Do I Need & What’s Best for My Boat?

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Hunter 26 outboard engine

• Thread starter Marc the army sailor
• Start date Jan 4, 2023
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

Marc the army sailor

Looking to replace my outboard. Anyone know: What is the Max HP rate for H26? Does it need to be long shaft? Weight limit to prevent list? I have an 8hp 2 stroke that pushes plenty but Looking at 9.9hp long shaft high thrust.  

8hp is plenty Extralong (25") shaft can be helpful Long (20") is minimum 9.9 is more than what is required but might make sense to gain other features like electric tilt or starting. That adds weight however so a consideration A 4 stroke weighs considerably more than a 2 stroke motor  

You are on the right track with 8+ hp long shaft. Same question came up on this thread: Hunter 26 outboard motor | Sailboat Owners Forums . You might find this article helpful: How to Calculate Outboard Motor Size for Sailboats - Improve Sailing .  

The Tohatsu 9.8 will save you considerable weight over the 9.9. since it doesn't have the larger block and efi. It'll weight in around 85lbs for short shaft and electric start. Check out OnlineOutboards.com for good pricing and also an excellent place to compare features. All tohatsus can be equipped for remote control by purchasing the parts. Check the parts catalogue on the onlineoutboards website.  

Max HP is not what limits what you CAN put on the boat, it is the transom strength and weight. You CAN put a 9.9 on an H26 but I would not recommend it. When I got my H26, it had a 1-year old Honda 9.9 on the back. It was new and worked well but it was heavy. It would push the boat at hull speed at about half-throttle but it drug in the water anytime I was on a port tack. The engine head was too large to fully tilt it into the engine well. Also note that extra HP will not make your boat go faster. For a displacement hull you have a max hull speed based on the hydrodynamics of the hull shape. For the H26 it is about 7.5 mph (~6.5 kts) After the first season, I sold the 9.9 and got a Tohatsu 6 sail-pro with the high thrust prop. For me that was the PERFECT OB for the H26. It would push at hull-speed at 2/3 throttle so I had a little extra for pushing into strong winds... it was light and easy to lift off the boat and carry to my truck... and it sipped gas. I sailed about three times a week over the summer months down in Alabama... and I would overnight on the boat once or twice a week during the fall and spring months. I had two 3-gallon tanks and I never once went through one of them in season. The Tohatsu SIPS gas. For me the PITA was what to do with the old gas in the auxillary tank. I'm sailing a hobie right now but my next pocket cruiser will probably be a compac and I will go electric for that but... I can say that for pushing an H26 or H260 at hull speed, you don't need more than 5 hp. I would base your decision on other criteria... for example 1) Is weight an issue? If so, a 9.9 would not be my choice. 2) Is fuel consumption an issue? If so, a 9.9 would not be my choice 3) Are you okay with dragging your prop in the water on a port tack? Or are you willing to modify the mount to avoid that? If you go with an OB with a bigger power head, you will not be able to fully tilt it up into the motor well unless you modify how it attaches to the transom. 3) Do you need (want) electric start and tilt. If so, the Tohatsu 6 or other smaller OB is not a good choice and you will probably need a larger OB. 4) Do you need (want) an alternator? BTW, the Tohatsu has a 6 Amp alternator. A note on OB alternators. The rated amperage of OB alternators is at WOT. Since you almost never run your OB at full throttle, the amount of actual electricity produced is much less than the amperage in the specs. When looking around at OBs, the alternator is nice but it would not be the reason I choose one OB over another. An inexpensive (and small) solar panal will easily out produce the alternator on a small OB over the course of time. Whatever you decide, get the extra long shaft (25")  

One more thought, a two cylinder motor typically runs much smoother than a single cylinder motor does. May be worth factoring into you decision process.  

There was an 8 HP Honda on my H240 when I purchased it a year and a half ago. It did feel strong and seemed a good fit. It was however heavy enough to bend the outboard bracket on the transom and it weighted almost 90 pounds. When it quit working (it was a 2008) I replaced it with a propane 5 HP Mercury Sailpro (made by Tohatsu). It does everything I need it too and it only weighs 57 lbs. It does vibrate as it is a single cylinder. I was never able to pull start the Honda more than four times before having to rest. The Mercury requires half the strength.  

Crazy Dave Condon

Except for the power sailors whose transom is built to power boat standards, the max hp for all sailboats is 10 hp per industry standards. However, there are variables in the equation. Two stroke engines require an oil/gas mixture but due to EPA rules, they no longer could be built starting in 2006. They generally were lighter than the four stroke engines which most are today. It is gas only but for the record, buy ethanol free gas because the corn syrup or corn crap as I call it in ethanol gas., will clog your carburetor. Tohatsu builds their own small engines but also the small Mercury and Nissan engines as well. I believe te 9.8 Tohatsu was a two stroke engine. The size engine will be determined for inland lakes, ocean, bay and electric start. @patbratton owns a Hunter 240 and down sized to a 5 hp on an inland lake which is ideal. l am not sure if a small charging is available for that engine but some folks install shore power for reasons to include a charging system on the boat. I was a former dealer but I am not sure if a small charging system is offered. @rgranger downsized from a four stoke 9,9 hp Honda that I believe my dealership installed at the request of the owner against my recommendations as I sold the boat originally . Rob down graded to a Tohatsu 6 pro long shaft or 25 inches long. 20 inch is minimal ! If you want an electric start engine, you will have to go for a 8 hp engine due to the size cable but be aware that the Tohatsu, Mercury and Nissan engine for the 8 and 9.9 are the same engine but the carburation is different as the weight will be the same. For trailering the motor, some sailors store the engine forward or back of the tow vehicle. However if you leave the motor on the outboard motor bracket during transport, you will need to distribute the load of the bolts with larger backing plates versus the washers. In addition, you will need to tie the motor handle of the engine upward to the base of the stern rail seat to keep the motor from bouncing which could cause damage to the transom.. to get a fuller understanding what you want the engine to do for you, can you advise if trailering alot, where you plan to sail, electric start and so forth. EVeryone has given you some good advice already. Rick, is that possum alive drinking some grog? Crazy dave Condon  

Hi @Crazy Dave Condon Actually John installed that 9.9 a few years after you sold him the boat.  

Thanks for correcting me as I would not have recommended that engine for a variety of reasons  

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outboard motor well

Discussion in ' Boatbuilding ' started by J Ralph , Oct 1, 2004 .

J Ralph Junior Member

I am looking to build a wood skiff for a mooring tender,and I would like to have the outboard motor in a well...anyone have any plans for something like this? Thanks  

carolina skiff scotty

i'm in the same boat -- ha. have a 16' wooden skiff i've stripped to the hull and am rebuilding. i've seen these motor wells, but not sure what value they add. they just seem to clutter the stern and make it more difficult to (a) run steering/throttle cables to the console (b) allow water in the cockpit to drain back to the transom, and out the drain hole/scuppers. Someone willing to refute me, and tell me why motor wells are necessary?  

motor well check this out -- http://www.glen-l.com/designs/outboard/motorwell.html question --- i assume this motor well allow waves that may crash over the stern to drain back out the cutout where the outboard bracket rests -- what about water in the cockpit? where would that go, since this covers up the drain hole/scuppers?  

the kind of well I mean would be 2-3 feet forward of the transom.It's purpose would be more for protecting the motor as the skiff would be tied up at a pier with 7or8 other skiffs,and they are always getting smashed up when it gets windy.Also,it would just be a small(2-5 hp.)outboard with a tiller arm...no steering cabels...any ideas??? J  

oh yeah....also it would have no scuppers...just a floor and a bailing bucket!  

mark j New Member

the forward motor wells i have seen are mainly used for the purpose of nets. its easier to haul nets without an outboard sticking up to become entangled in.  

this is more for protecting the motor from other skiffs and the dock  

THAT motor well You need to check out a design called a Simmons Sea Skiff. I think Old Wharf Dory Co. makes some. It's a carolina coastal design with an "internal" motor well to (as above mentioned) keep the stern clear for hauling nets. GO SOX!  

I'll try to find that on the web and see if I can get some plans.Was at game 5 at fenway park for ALL 14 innings.....what a game....can't wait for Shilling to take the mound sunday!  

joseph R Whaley Guest

guest Speaking of skiffs with motor wells, they are commom along the east coast of nc. they work great for running gill nets and small shrimp twrals also great for oystering and claming a verry good work boat. I have owned and worked about six of these during the past years.if I was in the markett for one I would look around morehead city or Harkers Island. NC.  

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thanks for the info....I was looking to build a small one(around 12 feet) just for a mooring skiff  

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Performance Bulletin

Aloha Patriot

Engine Mounting Height

Propeller(s)

Test Conditions

Performance Data

0-20 MPH: 4.34 seconds

Notice To Consumer The information and data contained in this Performance Bulletin is approximate and subject to many different factors and variables. It is provided as a guideline only and should not be relied upon as representative of actual performance. Your boat’s performance may be different than the information contained in this Performance Bulletin due to various factors, including your boat’s actual weight, wind and water conditions, temperature, humidity, elevation, bottom paint, boat options affecting wind/water drag and/or boat weight, and operator ability. Please confirm the specifications and performance data on your specific boat/engine combination with your dealer prior to purchase. Please also keep in mind that the data contained in this Performance Bulletin may or may not have been performed using Yamaha PowerMatched components. Yamaha reserves the right to change the specifications and performance data of this Performance Bulletin or engine without notice. This document contains many of Yamaha’s valuable trademarks. It may also contain trademarks belonging to other companies. Any references to other companies or their products are for identification purposes only, and are not intended to be an endorsement.

19 Popular Boats With Outboard Motors (with Pictures & Prices)

In this article, we will look at some popular boats with outboard motors. They are popular for various reasons, as we will get into below.

Here are 19 boats you should check out. We have categorized them per boat type so it’s easy for you to find the ones you are looking for.

Let’s get started!

4 Pontoon Boats You Should See

Pontoon boats are most commonly equipped with outboard motors but they do offer both inboard and outboard options.

Because of the design of the boat and the ease of maintenance the standard option for a pontoon is an outboard motor.

Under $40,000.00:

1. princecraft vectra 25 rl.

The Princecraft Vectra 25 RL is a top quality and affordable pontoon boat that features a lot of space that can accommodate up to 12 people.

This boat features chaise lounges, a sundeck, swim platform, large table, and many more luxuries.

This boat can handle an outboard engine that ranges between 40 and 115 horsepower. You can even get 200 horsepower if you have the optional Sport Configuration.

This vessel has a base price of $35,079.00.

$40,000.00 to $70,000.00:

2. starcraft sls 5 dc.

The Starcraft SLS 5 DC is a pontoon boat that offers a ski pylon, boarding ladder, changing room, and even a windscreen.

This boat is 25’ 10” long and can seat up to 14 people.

This boat offers many different luxury features and can be customizable.

This boat allows for an outboard motor of up to 300 horsepower.

This boat offers a starting price of $62,392.00.

3. Bennington SX 23 SBRX

The Bennington SX 23 SBRX is a luxury pontoon with all the luxuries that the Bennington brand has to offer.

This boat features enhanced entertainment options, vinyl upholstery, and other luxurious options for a reasonable price.

This boat is 23’ 11.5” long and can seat up to 11 passengers.

This boat features an outboard motor that can have up to 200 horsepower.

This boat has a starting price of $45,387.00.

Over $70,000.00:

4. harris solstice dc 250.

The Harris Solstice DC 250 has a heavy sports influence that features a lounge and additional comfort features.

This boat is 27’ 2” and includes a sporty look that has a dual console configuration and can seat between 12-13 people.

This boat can have an outboard motor that has up 400 horsepower.

This is a high-performance pontoon boat that is the best of both worlds of speed and comfort.

This boat has a starting price of approximately $90,000.00.

Deck Boats:

Deck boats are boats that come with an open floorplan and the seats are often set into the vessel.

These boats also commonly feature an outboard motor.

Some popular deck boats are listed below.

Under $30,000.00:

5. bayliner element e21.

The Element E21 made by Bayliner is the largest model in the Element line of vessels. It is 20’ 8” long and can seat up to 10 people at once.

This boat has a high level of comfort as well as value like all of the boats that are manufactured by Bayliner.

This boat also has seats on the stern that can convert into a large sun pad that allows for plenty of space.

This boat can have an outboard motor that has up to 150 horsepower.

You can get a Bayliner Element E21 for a starting price of $28,629.00.

$30,000.00 to $50,000.00:

6. hurricane sundeck 187 ob.

The Hurricane Sundeck is a small and sporty deck boat that is 18’ 10” in length and can seat up to 10 passengers.

This boat features a ladder on both the bow and the stern and comes with a live well with a pump.

This boat also features a great windshield to make piloting more comfortable.

The boat allows for an outboard motor of up to 200 horsepower.

You can get this small sporty deck boat for a starting price of $34,900.00.

Over $50,000.00:

7. regal 26 fasdeck.

Regal’s FasDeck series has been created with looks in mind. This boat comes with a much more attractive appeal than other deck boats in its class.

In addition to the attractive appeal, these boats also emphasize luxury and space.

This model is bigger than their 22’ option and is 26’ 6” allowing it to provide more space and comfort for those aboard.

Unique features like social seating, additional layout choices, more space and storage, and even an enclosed full-size head that allows for comfortable boating for you and your passengers.

This boat was built with watersports in mind and offers a low to the water swim platform for ease and convenience.

This boat allows for an outboard motor of up to 350 horsepower.

You can buy this model for a starting price of over $80,000.00. If that is too expensive, you could always look at the 22’ option with a starting price of just over $50,000.00

Fishing Boats:

Fishing boats are just what they sound like. Boats that are designed with fishing in mind.

This is exhibited in the equipment and layout of the specific boat. Fishing boats are often aluminum with an outboard motor but can be many types of boats.

For the purpose of this article, I have chosen to classify fishing boats as the classic aluminum style.

8. Alumacraft Competitor 185 Sport

This boat is a perfectly sized aluminum fishing boat that offers spacious features as well as equipment designed to make fishing easier.

This boat is only 18’ 8” long and comes with 3 deluxe seats that were built for fishing.

Some features include rod storage, live wells that include timers, trolling systems, and other optional fishing options.

This boat can feature an outboard motor up to 150 horsepower.

You can purchase this boat for a price that could fall between $28,010.00 and $37,730.00.

Over $30,000.00:

9. crestline 2100 raptor.

This boat is also an aluminum fishing boat that prides itself on its pro-level fishing options such as a large casting deck, a 17 tube illuminated rod locker, a windshield that you can walk-through, and a bow and stern live well.

This boat is 20’ 11” in length and has a maximum capacity of 7 people.

You can equip this vessel with an outboard motor of up to 350 horsepower.

This boat comes with a starting price of $53,611.00.

Sailboats also can feature outboard motors even though they are mainly powered by the wind propulsion in their sails.

Oftentimes, motors on sailboats are used mainly for docking and maneuvering in tough areas, but they can also be used for instances when you have little to no wind.

10. Catalina 22

This boat comes with both a fixed or lifting keel depending on whether you buy the Capri or Sport version. This boat is ideal for racing but is also easy to handle and trailer with a small crew.

The boat also features an open cabin that can sleep a family of 4 and is 23’ 10” in length.

This boat can be fitted with an outboard motor up to 7 horsepower.

The starting price for this vessel can be between $22,000.00 and $31,000.00 depending on which model you choose to go with.

$30,000.00 to $100,000.00:

11. beneteau 22.

For those of you looking for a similar model to the Catalina 22 but you would prefer more deck space than space below, you might want to look into the Beneteau 22.

Beneteau prides this model on being safe and ideal for learning to sail. This boat features a hull with positive flotation and a larger cockpit that will allow more sailors onboard. This boat is 21’ in length and is ideal for beginners when it comes to both sailing and trailering their vessels.

You can fit this boat with an outboard motor of up to 10 horsepower.

This boat is more expensive than the Catalina and features a starting price of closer to $40,000.00.

Over $100,000.00:

12. varianta 37.

If you are looking for a more advanced and competitive sailing option, you should consider the Varianta 37. This boat offers any amenities that you need in a 37’ frame while offering a more reasonable price than its similar competitors.

This boat, while offering everything you might need, is known for keeping to the basics so that you can enjoy a reasonable price tag on such a large vessel.

This boat can be equipped with an outboard motor of up to 20 horsepower.

The starting price for this boat is approximately $150,000.00.

Inflatable Boats:

Some boats serve a main purpose to ferry you to other, larger boats. These are the most commonly inflatable dinghies.

These are often small and able to be attached or even brought on to longer vessels and can be equipped with outboard motors as an option.

Under $1,000.00:

13. goplus inflatable dinghy.

This boat is made up of enough air tubes to make sure you do not need to worry about failure or sinking. This boat features a weight limit of up to 600 pounds and has built-in benches to sit on ready to seat 4 people.

You can mount an outboard motor of up to 4 horsepower on the back of this vessel.

This boat features a low cost of approximately $300.00.

Over $1,000.00:

14. shark inflatable dinghy 9.8.

This boat is similar to the Goplus dinghy but is made to handle more speed. You can fit up to 1,200 pounds an up to four people on this impressive inflatable model.

This boat allows for an outboard motor of up to 15 horsepower.

This motor on a boat of this size should give you all the speed you are looking for! This boat is a little pricier with a price of approximately $1,400.00.

Center Console Boats:

Another type of boat you might be looking at in your list of boats with outboard motors is a center console boat. These boats are often used for fishing but they can be used for other family activities while out on the water as well.

Like all the examples before, these boats also commonly feature an outboard motor.

$50,000.00 to $100,000.00:

15. boston whaler 190 montauk.

This boat is a great center console option for both fishermen and those who just want to get out on the water and enjoy the day.

This boat features additional upgrades like a teak package that includes a swim platform and helm footrest. This package gives this boat a nostalgic look.

If you are looking for fishing features, you will need to look no further. You can get vertical rod holders, an outboard draining fish box, and other luxuries for fishermen.

This boat is 19’ 4” in length and can seat up to 8 passengers comfortably.

You can install an outboard motor of up to 150 horsepower on this vessel.

This boat has a starting price of around $78,000.00.

16. Mako 334 CC

This boat’s main function is built with fisherman in mind. Every inch of space on this vessel is utilized in the most efficient way for the avid fisherman.

You can get this boat in a standard, family, or sportfish addition.

This boat features elevated performance as well as great style. You can get plenty of storage options for bait and tackle, insulated port and starboard in-deck fish boxes, dive doors with stowable ladder, and even a submerged Sea Chest that keeps 4 pumps running.

This boat is mighty and can hold up to 1050 horsepower. This would have to be accomplished using multiple outboard motors.

This boat has a higher cost than our previous examples of approximately $264,900.00.

Power Cruisers:

Power cruisers are similar to other power vessels with the added luxury of multiple cabins and under deck amenities.

These boats, like all others, generally come equipped with an outboard motor, and can be equipped with high power.

Because of the luxuries equipped, these boats are often more expensive. They also generally require motors with high levels of horsepower which can also get expensive.

If you plan to purchase this type of boat, you will want to make sure you plan for a larger budget with this option.

Under $200,000.00:

17. cutwater c-24.

The Cutwater C-24 Coupe Boat is a luxurious cabin cruiser that combines the ease of trailering and maneuvering with a small group of people with all the luxuries of spending a few nights out on the water.

This boat combines speed and luxury in one great package. You can use this boat for overnight travel, fishing, watersports or other fun activities.

This boat has a private stateroom and head, galley, and a salon that seats four and can transform into an additional berth.

This boat also offers many entertainment options such as GPS, fishfinder, radio, Bluetooth stereo, and other great features.

You can also upgrade with a generator, air-conditioning, heating, and other options.

This boat is fitted with an outboard motor with 250 horsepower.

You can purchase this grand boat with a starting price of $118,437.00.

Over $200,000.00:

18. four winns vista 355.

This boat is an elegant vessel with everything that you need to travel. This boat offers high luxury with a temperate-controlled cabin, thoughtful design, and a high level of consideration to ease and comfort.

This boat has many types of luxuries such as a deep reach ladder, transom access, many sun pads that are hinged to avoid having to step on the cushion, plenty of comfortable seating and other additional options.

This boat is 35’ in length and can fit up to 12 passengers comfortably.

This boat features a head, multiple berths, and galley.

You can use a 300 horsepower outboard motor on this vessel.

This boat has a starting price of $318,000.000

19. Jeanneau NC 33

This boat offers excellent high-quality luxury for the entire family. Highly well-built and luxurious with a tasteful design that will be the envy of all your friends.

This boat prides itself on its high levels of technology and innovation. The center console features the latest designs in travel and navigation.

This boat features 2 large double berths, a head with a separate shower compartment, and a galley with a dinette.

This boat offers a maximum level of horsepower of 440 and features twin motors of 220 horsepower apiece.

This boat is valued at approximately $450,000.00.

Tips on Purchasing an Outboard Motor:

Now that you have decided that an outboard motor is right for you, you will want to make sure you pick the right one. When purchasing your outboard motor, there are some things to keep in mind.

Above, I have indicated how much horsepower each boat can handle. Power is an important consideration to make when searching for a motor.

If you plan to tow any objects for water sports, you will want more horsepower than if you do not plan to tow something.

You will want to make sure that you do not equip your boat with more power than it can handle, but you will want to make sure you have enough power for your vessel to sufficiently be propelled forward.

If you have a sailboat you only need enough power to help you during moments of tough navigation.

If you need large amounts of power you might want to look into getting more than one motor. It is not uncommon for a boat to have 2 or even 3 outboard motors attached to the back of their vessel. This helps to balance the power distribution of your watercraft.

Another thing to consider during all parts of your boat buying decision, you will want to keep your budget in mind.

If you have a lower budget you might want to consider a used motor. Outboard motors can be good for around 3,000 hours. This means that a gently used motor could be an ideal way to save some money.

If you do choose to buy a used motor, make sure that you make sure that it doesn’t have any issues. Looking to make sure it is cleaned properly and in working order is important.

If possible, you might even want to run it and make sure there are no red flags such as the wrong colored smoke.

Durability:

Make sure when you buy your outboard motor, you find one that will last. Even though an outboard motor is easier to replace than an inboard option, you will want to make sure that you do not have to replace yours more often than necessary.

Make sure you read reviews and buy from a trustworthy manufacturer and brand.

The most popular brands of outboard motors include Mercury, Evinrude, Yamaha, and Suzuki.

What brand you choose will rely mainly on how much power you need, what your budget is, and what specifications you are looking for.

Maintaining your Outboard Motor:

Now that you have invested in the proper outboard motor, you will want to make sure you are protecting your investment and increasing the motor life of your engine.

This means you will want to complete regular maintenance on your engine.

Some proper motor care includes:

• Flushing out the motor after outings.
• Starting the motor before you head out and let the water pump out properly.
• Making sure the water is flowing properly through the motor and that there is no water in the fuel.
• Check for leaks, cracks or worn down spots.
• Clean and lubricate all the moving parts.
• Always use fresh fuel and replace the fuel that has been sitting for long periods of time.
• Check for rust or corrosion.
• Make sure the vent is working properly.
• Get your motor serviced regularly.
• Make sure you change your oil regularly.
• Properly winterize your boat and make sure you are paying attention to the proper winterizing steps for your motor and fuel.
• Make sure you run your motor while on land before you take it out for the first time of the season so you can fix anything necessary. This will help prevent you from finding an issue while out on the water.
• Make sure you always have extra spark plugs.

The proper care and maintenance can increase the life and fuel efficiency of your motor that will make sure you are not replacing it earlier than you should be.

Outboard versus Inboard Motors:

It is important to know the difference between an inboard and an outboard motor before you decide to purchase one or the other.

Outboard Motor Pros:

An outboard motor is one that is attached to the deck of a boat, often using a bolted stand or other fastening options.

These motors can be controlled by the dashboard of your vessel or by directly steering it with a handle on a smaller boat.

Having an outboard motor will allow you to buy motors after the initial purchase of the boat, as well as purchasing more than one motor for the same vessel.

There are many pros to purchasing an outboard motor. These pros include:

• Lower initial cost.
• Higher top speeds.
• Larger open cockpit.
• Long engine life of about 3,000 hours.
• Multiple options can be purchased across many different vessels.
• Easy to winterize.
• Easy to conduct maintenance on.
• Easy to repair when needed.
• Easy to replace if needed.

Outboard motors are ideal for people who prefer quick-handling, tight turn ratio, and better maneuverability with lower speeds.

These motors are also good for boating in shallow waters because the prop tilts up.

Outboard Motor Cons:

Like everything, there are also cons when it comes to an outboard motor. These include:

• Lower fuel efficiency.
• Lower service life than inboards.
• Not as ideal for transom use around fish.

When it comes to comparing the pros and cons, it is obvious that an outboard motor has far more pros and would be a great option.

Even with lower torque, you can still equip your boat with an outboard motor by adding a second or even third motor for really heavy boats.

Inboard Motor Pros:

An inboard motor is either mounted into the center or your boat or stowed inside the transom and does not hang off the back.

An inboard motor is often high-performing engines that are repurposed for marine use. Because these motors are more complex, they have a longer lifespan than outboard motors.

The pros of an inboard motor are:

• Higher fuel efficiency.
• Quieter operation.
• Long engine life of about 6,000 hours.
• Superior torque and power.
• Centered and lower weight.

Inboard motors are favored when it comes to watersports including skiing or wakeboarding because they have better wake control, more towing power, and the transom is clear for towing ropes.

Inboard Motor Cons:

The cons of an inboard motor include:

• Higher initial cost.
• Lower top speeds.
• More spray from your boat.
• Less cockpit space.
• More difficult winterization.
• More difficult maintenance.
• More difficult to repair.
• More difficult to replace.

Looking at all the pros and cons above, you might be considering an outboard motor. This is an excellent choice!

All of my former boats have featured outboard motors and they have worked excellent for both speedboats and pontoon boats.

If you also would like an outboard motor, keep reading for some great options of boats with outboard motors.

Final Thoughts:

Outboard motors are an overall easier motor choice for your boat. It is easier to manage them, replace them, and choose the best motor for you.

When you are choosing a boat, you should make sure that you get the proper motor that is right for you and the intended purpose of your recreational watercraft.

Luckily, outboard motors are an option that come with all types of boats so you are not limited in your choices.

With the proper boat and motor, you can spend many happy memories out on the water with friends and family.

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2025 Mercury 15 HP EFI 15MLH Outboard Motor

Product Description

State of the art design of the 15 HP Mercury EFI outboard motor power head creates the low-end torque needed for power and fast planing making it an excellent source of power for medium to larger sized jon boats, skiffs, and inflatable boats. This ultra-lightweight motor is the first ever portable outboard with an ambidextrous tiller. Mercury Outboard Model: 15MLH is a 107-lb. 15 HP outboard motor, manual start with a 20 inch long shaft. Mercury outboard engines surpass industry standards and deliver power and fuel economy.

Your online outboard shopping ends here! We are an authorized Mercury Dealer and we offer the Mercury 3-year warranty as well as discounted prices and free shipping.

• Shaft Length Guidelines
• All New Tiller Handle
• Thru-Cowl Backup Manual Start
• Digital CD Ignition with Spark Advance
• Tuned Intake for Quick Acceleration
• High Grade Marine Alloy Construction
• Stainless Steel Water Pump Housing
• Zinc Coated Water Passages
• Rated for Saltwater Use
• Sacrificial Zinc Anodes and Trim Tab
• Tiller Integrated F-N-R Gear Shifting
• Adjustable Steering Tension Control
• Twist-Grip Throttle with Tension Control
• Thermostat Controlled Water Cooling
• Shallow Water Drive
• Quiet Through-Propeller-Hub Exhaust
• "Wishbone" Mount for Reduced Vibration
• 3.2 Gallon Fuel Tank and Fuel Line
• Easy Maintenance Canister Oil Filter
• Start-In-Gear Protection
• Low Oil Pressure Warning Indicator
• ESG Over-Rev Protection
• Safety Lanyard Stop Switch
• Owner's Manual
• Mercury Marine 3-Year Warranty

• Fuel Tank (3.2 gallon)
• Quick Connect Fuel Line
• Mercury 3-Year Warranty
• Aluminum Propeller
• Mercury 4-Stroke Oil
• Owner's Manual & Tool Kit

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Sharrow Marine Unveils Highly-Anticipated Sharrow MX-A™, Bringing Revolutionary Performance to 40-200 HP Outboard Engines

Starting at $1,995, sharrow’s patented propeller technology is now more accessible than ever before.

Detroit, MI – September 17, 2024 – Sharrow Marine, the industry leader in innovative marine propulsion technology, announced today the launch of its new propeller series, the Sharrow MX-A™, designed specifically for boats with outboards in the 40-200 HP range. This latest release brings Sharrow’s award-winning technology to a far wider range of boaters, including those with pontoon boats as well as smaller fishing and pleasure boats. 

The Sharrow MX-A is engineered to deliver the same industry-leading performance benefits that have defined Sharrow’s product line—improving handling and performance, dramatically reducing noise, and enhancing fuel efficiency—now optimized for lower HP outboard engines. Boaters can expect smoother and quieter rides, faster acceleration, and longer cruising ranges, making the Sharrow MX-A ideal for those looking to elevate their boating experience with advanced marine technology. 

“With the MX-A series, we’re taking the same groundbreaking propeller technology we pioneered for larger engines and making it accessible to boats in the 40-200 HP range. This is a huge leap forward in performance for a segment that has been waiting for true innovation,” said Greg Sharrow, Founder and CEO of Sharrow Marine. “We are thrilled to finally bring smaller outboards the efficiency and handling upgrades they deserve.”

The Sharrow MX-A is Sharrow Marine’s first-ever aluminum propeller, opening up its patented technology to an entirely new market. CNC-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum at Sharrow’s Detroit-based facilities, the MX-A offers the unparalleled precision and patented technology of Sharrow’s stainless steel models to smaller engines and delivers unmatched handling, acceleration, and efficiency. 

Compatible with 2-stroke, 4-stroke, command thrust, in-line 4-cylinder, and power thrust motors, the Sharrow MX-A is designed to fit major outboard brands, including Mercury, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, Tohatsu, Johnson, and Evinrude. Starting at $1,995, Sharrow’s revolutionary propeller technology is now more accessible than ever before. 

The Sharrow MX-A is now available for order through the Sharrow Marine website , with deliveries expected in 4-6 weeks. Every Sharrow MX-A comes with a 30-day satisfaction guarantee and is backed by a Lifetime Manufacturer's Warranty, ensuring peace of mind with every purchase. 

About Sharrow Engineering and Sharrow Marine 

Sharrow Engineering, a Detroit-based advanced engineering and design firm, revolutionized propeller technology with the Sharrow™ Propeller, the first major advancement in propeller technology since the 1830s. Invented by Greg Sharrow, the Sharrow Propeller has solved the most basic problem of rotary propulsion, eliminating tip cavitation and vortices, and offering significant performance gains over traditional propellers. Sharrow Engineering holds over 150 patents worldwide and is the parent company of Sharrow Marine, which produces and sells the award-winning propeller for the maritime industry. Recognized as a TIME Best Invention of 2023 and by Fast Company's 2024 World Changing Ideas Awards and the 2023 Innovation by Design Awards, the Sharrow Propeller also won the 2024 Clean Technology Transportation Solution of the Year by CleanTech Breakthrough, the 2022 Boating Marine Power Innovation Award from Boating Magazine and the 2020 Miami International Boat Show Innovation Award. For more information, visit www.sharrowmarine.com . 

Media Contact: [email protected]