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Lightning is a 18 ′ 11 ″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Skaneateles Boat & Canoe Co., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., Siddons & Sindle, Lippincott Boat Works, J.J. Taylor and Sons Ltd., Lockley Newport Boats, Eichenlaub Boat Co., Mobjack Manufacturing Corp., Clark Boat Company, Allen Boat Co., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1938.
- 2 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 3 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 4 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 5 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 6 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 7 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
- 8 / 8 Charlotte, NC, US 1982 Lightning $4,500 USD View
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
One of the most popular one-design classes in the US since the 1940’s. But fleets also exist in other parts of the world. Although originally designed for wood planked construction, nearly all boats since the early 1960’s have been built of fiberglass. Ballast above is max weight of centerboard.
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WOODEN SAILBOATS FOR SALE
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| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Beam: 6'6"' Draft: 4'11"' | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | © 2001-2024 ./) . . ./) . . |
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Thinking about a Woody?Lou mauriello's checklist. Wooden Boat magazine and forum are the best places to start. I read the forum posts for three to six months when I first looked at restoring a wooden boat. There used to be a forum on the Lightning site but it doesn’t seem to be functional any more (I had read all the posts on that forum before I started working on my hull). Another thing you can do is amass as many of the older wooden boat articles from the Lightning class eflashes magazine that you can. There was a time that you could buy all the old ones from the class office. I’m not sure if they still offer that service. Don’t overlook all the documents and articles hosted on the Woody section of the class site. I’d even go so far as to suggest reading everyone’s bios as a good deal of them include something the owner did to the boat after buying. As to a checklist—it’s a little hard as there were so many different builders and although the boats are a One Class, there were some variances on the hulls. On top of that age and storage environment will affect a checklist and govern a lot of what you’ll need to determine. Then there’s the fiberglass covered hulls and a aluminum spars considerations. But, I’ll take a stab at one (at least an all wood, non fiberglassed, non updated spars one), and I’ll leave it up to some of the others on this list to add onto what I’ve written. Who knows, maybe we can come up with a document to add to Woody section of the class site. Here goes: GENERAL ADVICE- Learn as much as you can about the boat before you go look at one—you won’t know what is wrong if you don’t know what it should look like.
- Take every afforded opportunity to get out and see Lightnings, of any year or builder. Use what you’re learning about the boat in a practical way so that you have a good visual understanding of how she’s laid out. Take photos for later review. Look through all of the photos posted on the Wooden Lightning Yahoo site.
- Pre determine just how much work you want to do, what you’re capable of, if you have the space to do it in and the required tools, and the level of restoration you’re willing to perform and are capable of performing (Example: if you don’t have a lot of woodworking skills you may consider epoxy repairs to wood replacements—the costs can be considerable either way and you should be realistic about your skills and desire to do the work required and involved).
- Perform a physical survey—document everything you find when you perform your physical survey – I drew diagrams before I went to survey the boat and then added details to them as I looked thru her.
- What you’ll find is that if every time you identify something you take a longer took, step back, and attempt to find the cause, you’ll find other items that you would have missed which probably weren’t as noticeable when just performing a general inspection.
- My last general advice is to try to perform your survey without the owner, the rep, or the marina staff around. Try to schedule the inspection when you can be alone with the boat.
SURVEY QUESTIONS- Check soundness of wood everywhere—I used an ice pick and poked the entire bottom and freeboards from one end to the other looking for soft punky wood. I crawled under the boat and inside the boat. I crawled into the forward triangle under the foredeck and under the aft decking searching everywhere.
- If you find punky wood try to determine what caused it—was it water laying in the bilge and if so where’d it come from (the source can point to an issue you may have missed).
- Look for signs of bugs, ants and termites can be a much larger issue latter on then you ever expected. Look for signs of bugs, ants and termites can be a much larger issue latter on then you ever expected.
- Check specific areas with greater detail:
- Bow and stem—inside and out
- Transom—inside and out
- Keelson from fore to aft—especially in and around the mast step area
- Soundness of bailers if applicable
- Soundness of wood in the area of the CenterBoard (CB) pin and at the aft end of the CB Trunk (two points where water damaged wood is often found)
- Check around the entire CB Trunk where the CB Trunk supports connect to the Keelson and the Garboards (another area where soft wood and leaking often occur)
- The CB itself—bent, warped, rust pitted
- Condition of the Partners (where the mast goes thru the deck)
- Ribs and deck supports—look for cracking and splitting—try to determine what might have caused it if found. Could it have been an overweight skipper on the deck that caused a deck support to crack or an over tightening of the stays that changed the shape of the hull placing stress on the area in question. The whole mast shrouds’ chainplate, mast partners, and front of the CB Trunk area in particular should be looked at with an eye towards this type of investigation. Find and read the article on strengthening this area located in the Woody section of the class site.
- Soundness of decking (especially the canvas if applicable)
- Straightness of Freeboards—take a long lateral look down the hull looking for waviness or anything that looks out of sorts. Look for any flat spots on the hull and try to determine where the stress that is causing them originates from.
- Condition and completeness of all standing rigging (this is where you’ll run into the most cost when restoring/refurbishing):
- Turnbuckles on all 6 stainless lines.
- The lines themselves and the connectors at both ends of each line – run your hand along each one looking for frays (wear gloves), rust, etc… check where the lines terminate for soundness.
- The hardware where the lines connect to the hull and the mast itself: Chainplates and other connection points.
- The condition of the gooseneck.
- The condition of the rotating cam cleat assemble for the mainsheet (usually at the aft end of the CB trunk).
- All blocks and pulleys (and drums—gears—if applicable).
- All the running lines—check condition and soundness:
- These are the easiest to replace—even so, line can quickly become a considerable cost, especially the longer lines such as the Main Sheet (may involve a traveler – requires its own inspection—otherwise will involve more blocks on Boom and Aft Decking) and Jib Sheets
- The spinnaker sheets and associated lines
- The main and jib halyards
- There may be a considerable amount of running rigging under decks, which is generally all customized to the specific skipper’s desires. You’ll probably want to change some of it to fit your own. Check and document what’s there for future consideration.
- Most of the running rigging will have some sort of hank or clasp, at minimum on one end. You should check these out as well.
- The spars—if wood, check the mast seams for integrity and verify that the glue is holding its bond:
- Check the condition of the Masthead sheave
- Check condition of all mounted hardware, stays and struts where applicable
- Check runners or tracks
- Condition, newness, cleanliness, rips, tears.
- Condition of batten pockets.
- Condition of thread/seams especially at the head piece and around the clew and tack grommets.
- Condition of the edges: foot, etc.
- Lights and electric wires functionality and soundness.
- Soundness of the coupling.
- Tires and bearings (the last trailerable boat I purchased I got lazy and didn’t grease the bearings before the tow home—they burnt out on the road, melted the tires, ate up an entire day for a trip that should have been 2 hours and cost me almost a hundred dollars when all was said and done)
- Condition of the springs—leaf or coil
- Condition of paint—you may end up having to grind the metal down to eliminate rust and repaint—this is both a major cost and time consideration.
- Seats and Floorboards—I’ve actually seen skippers throw out their floorboards to try to lighten their hulls in order to get down to racing weight. In a wooden boat this would mean that they are walking on the actual hull planks applying pressure where it wasn’t meant to be and probably weakening the fittings connecting the planks to the ribs.
- Check the rudder for warpage, checks, wood rot, etc.
- The Gudgeons and Pintles (2 of each) and there mounting points and related hardware.
- Tiller rudder connection—how well the tiller sits in the slot on the rudder head and/or any associated connecting hardware—an extremely lose fitting here will adversely affect downwind sailing controllability.
- Make a comprehensive inventory of what is needed to skipper a boat and what actually comes with the boat being offered—is there an anchor, running lines, rigging, fog horn, boat hook, paddles, bilge pump, PFDs, trailer, etc… all the little things you didn’t think about that can cost you $$s later on [Example: when I purchased 7310 I saw stuff laying on the ground around the boat that upon further inspection had been part of the boats original inventory. Had I not known what I needed to skipper a boat I would have had to purchase it later on].
Afterwards, develop a budget - write up everything that needs to be repaired and associate costs to each item. Look it up on the web, in catalogs, at marinas, etc. Assuming that the boat you select is wood (not fiberglass or fiberglass covered) make a determination on what you’d like to finish pained and what you’ll finish bright and consider long term maintenance of your decision. Document this so you’ll be able to determine if you’re looking at more "bright" then you’ll want to maintain. If the boat is fiberglass covered you’ll have to make a determination on the soundness of the fiberglass covering itself, the bond, and the condition of the underlying wood, all of which is much harder but can be done, plus there are plenty of people on this list that can be more helpful in this area then I. Last item: Don’t allow what I’ve written here to scare you away from joining the rest of us who have treaded down this path. In the end it will all be worth it. You’ll be the proud owner of an amazing piece of history and will find that where ever you go people will be attracted to your boat. You’ll garner tons of appreciation and pride from what you will have accomplished. And you might even make the rest of us incredibly envious to boot. And now—who’s for taking what I’ve written to the next level? Lou Mauriello 7310/2390 Sponsor Number | URL address | Sponsor 1 | https://www.marksetbot.com/ | Sponsor 2 | http://www.onedesign.com/Default.aspx | Sponsor 3 | https://www.thesailinginc.com/lightning | Sponsor 4 | http://nickelsboats.com/ | Sponsor 5 | http://awardandsports.securesites.net/ | Sponsor 6 | http://www.capitallogoinc.com/shop/pc/home.asp | Sponsor 7 | http://www.rookesails.com/ | Sponsor 8 | http://www.sailorstailor.com | Sponsor 9 | https://www.harken.com/ | Sponsor 10 | http://www.sailorstailor.com | Lightning Class Supporters |
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IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
One of the most popular one-design classes in the US since the 1940's. But fleets also exist in other parts of the world. Although originally designed for wood planked construction, nearly all boats since the early 1960's have been built of fiberglass. Ballast above is max weight of centerboard.
The Lightning, a 19-foot trailerable centerboard sloop, was originally designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day-sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular
The Lightning was designed in 1938 as a wooden planing sloop. The boat saw very rapid growth until 1942, again in the early 1950's and then in the 1960's as sailors turned to fiberglass hulls. What is perhaps unusual in the boat is that the designers, Sparkman and Stevens, gave the Class association not only rights, but ownership of the ...
It's a gathering of wooden Lightning sailboats, most built before 1980, and attended by sailors who've been caring for, restoring and sailing these older boats for years—as I have. I decided against trailering my boat all that way but signed on to crew for Mike of Skaneateles, New York, in his classic boat number 348, built sometime in ...
31' Mariner Ketch - Major Restoration & Repower - New Rigging & Sails Tenants Harbor Maine, Maine Asking $45,000
A classic Lightning is one built of wood or one of the early fiberglass boats, typically built prior to the early 1980's. In addition to supporting each other with discussions of maintenance, boat construction, rigging, tuning, racing, daysailing, boat camping and more, We hold an annual "Get Together" / Regatta.
Lightning. The Lightning is a recreational sailboat, initially built with wooden plank construction and, since the early 1960s, of fiberglass with wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig with wooden or aluminum spars. The rig employs a backstay, anchored off center, so as to not impede the tiller.
1970 Lippincott Boat Works Lightning,Lippincott Lightning Sailboat Hull #11580Trailer is titled (new tires last year), and the boat has current MS registration. ... All wood interior is new. Motor installation new, wires, shaft, exhaust shaft. The mast has been painted. All rigging is new (2014). New lines, boat polyurethane paint, cushions ...
Lightning preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Lightning used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid Fraud. ... wood monohull: Engine: 0 gas inboard; Location: Xenia, Ohio; Asking: $500: Sailboat Added 26-Apr-2016 More Details: WD Schock Santana 35:
Lightning preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Lightning used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats ... Length Year Price Added. lightning - mast - wooden Lightning: Length: ' Type: cruiser: Hull: fiberglass monohull: Location: Pinckney, Michigan; Asking: $400: Sailboat Added 09-May-2024 More Details: Homemade ...
09-28-2005, 12:39 PM. I'm considering the purchase and restoration of a Lightning class sloop. Perhaps folks would be so kind as to advise me on a couple points. Background first: The boat: A 1950's vintage Lightning with a Spruce mast, oak stem, red cedar planking, mahogany trim, ply deck with canvas.
Lightning is a 18 ′ 11 ″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Skaneateles Boat & Canoe Co., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., Siddons & Sindle, Lippincott Boat Works, J.J. Taylor and Sons Ltd., Lockley Newport Boats, Eichenlaub Boat Co., Mobjack Manufacturing Corp., Clark Boat Company, Allen Boat Co., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc ...
PO Box 475 Tarpon Springs, FL 34688 Phone: 727-942-7969 Skype: ilcaoffice
Tweet. #4. 09-15-2009, 12:12 PM. Re: Lightning Class build ...which show a boat built completely different from the way Prudence is put together. Prudence is single planked the long way, rather than multiple diagonal plys across the bottom. More than one way to skin a cat, and different methods will take different amounts of time.
ZEPHYRUS. 1995 Fenwick Williams/Alden 21. SOLD. GOT-CHA. 1935 Herreshoff 12-1/2 - SOLD. TIMBERWIND. 1931 Classic Portland Pilot Schooner - SOLD. Maine wooden sailboats for sale by Artisan Boatworks. Click on any boat to view the listing and get in touch.
WoodenBoat is a bimonthly magazine that delivers a blend of traditional and evolving methods of boat design, construction, repair, and related crafts—as well as profiles of unique boats and people. In each of our lavishly illustrated, carefully researched and written issues, we aim to educate and inspire our readers while conveying quality ...
Lightning Sailboat $3,990. 1956 wooden lightning sailboat beautifully restored in 2020 at Lowell Boat Restoration in Greensboro NC, a premier wooden boat restoration company.Boat comes with:Bryant aluminum mast and boomDieball Main 2015Dieball Jib 2014North Spinnaker 2010Spinnaker Pole- aluminumWooden Rudder w/ aluminum tiller/extension & bag2013 galvanized trailer- LED lights with swing ...
More at: http://www.eyeinhand.com/?p=16325Taking a classic 1947 Lightning sailboat out for only our second sail in her. The first time with the jib up. I've ...
Complete plans for building a Lightning. Entitles you to build one Lightning boat and to have an official ILCA number assigned to your hull. Included is a copy of the Wooden Boat Magazine article and Hamlin & Smith supplement plans, as well as the original Sparkman & Stephens plans. Price: $100.00 — Boat Number. $ 50.00 — Plans.
Wooden Boat demonstrated that a state-of-the-art wooden boat can compete in price with the commercial builders. And they showed the Lightning for what it is—a classic boat. Joel Thurtell. 11803 Priscilla Lane. Plymouth, MI 48170. 1-734-454-1890 1-734-454-4666. [email protected].
Tweet. #1. Wooden Lightning Sailboat. 03-03-2003, 12:34 AM. I recently aquired an old wooden lightning. It looks to be ceder on oak construction. It has been covered with what I believe is old poly fiberglass. I am not sure if the. glass was done during original construction, or if it was done at some later date to.
31' Mariner Ketch - Major Restoration & Repower - New Rigging & Sails Tenants Harbor Maine, Maine Asking $45,000
Soundness of wood in the area of the CenterBoard (CB) pin and at the aft end of the CB Trunk (two points where water damaged wood is often found) Check around the entire CB Trunk where the CB Trunk supports connect to the Keelson and the Garboards (another area where soft wood and leaking often occur) The CB itself—bent, warped, rust pitted.