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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

Jason Heaton

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

iwc yacht club 2015

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

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Watch Collector’s Notebook — IWC’s original Yacht Club, an avant garde answer to the Datejust

One of my favorite vintage brands and one which I also feel is consistently undervalued is the International Watch Company of Schaffhausen, better known as simply IWC. Back in the day, every IWC watch had an in-house movement and their manual wind and automatic calibers were some of the best, most reliable and accurate machines on the market. With their bespoke Pelleton winding system , which was developed by  the marque’s famed technical director  Albert Pelleton in the early 1950s, IWC offered a solid alternative, if not also an implicit challenge, to Rolex’s longtime dominance of full rotor automatic  technology . IWC continued to develop their 85x auto calibers for nearly two decades until they reached what many experts consider the pinnacle with their legendary 8541B movement. And it is the 8541B that you find in IWC’s other implicit challenge to Rolex, the beautifully designed Yacht Club model.

Debuting right at the dawn of the funky 1970s when the Swiss watch industry would go somewhat design mad chasing rapidly changing tastes and fashions, the Yacht Club manages to be at once cutting edge and traditional. Making full use of the sweeping lines of the “C”-shape case, variations of which are also found in contemporaneous Omega Constellations and Heuer’s automatic Carrera, the Yacht Club’s heavy steel case is a perfectly proportioned 36mm X 44mm. That’s much bigger than the rather medium-sized C-shape Connie and obviously not as big as Heuer’s macho racing chronograph, so where it ends up is exactly in the same size bracket as Rolex’s evergreen, the Datejust. And that’s really the best analog and probably the exact watch IWC were gunning for. For if the Datejust was the icon of a never-changing design standard, the Yacht Club aimed to offer the same sort of elegance but with a bit of an avant garde twist for the modern man.

Hence the lugs sweep inward toward the bracelet rather than projecting out in a relatively straight line like the DJ, giving the dial extra prominence and pop. And what beautiful dials the Yacht Clubs had, from the classic beauty of starburst silver to moody, manly gray to my personal favorite, an astonishing blue that changes in hue ever so subtly depending on the angle at which its viewed. Note also the classy way the date discs are not one-size-fits-all for the colored dials but rather reverse printed with white numerals on the matching color background of the dial. Nice touch! The hands are luminous with black inlay and very easy to read and there is something that really appeals about the applied IWC logo of this period. I like it better than the earlier printed full script “International Watch Co.” alone and much more than the later boring printed block lettering, which still adorns their dials today.

The Yacht Club was also a departure for IWC in that prior to its introduction they produced only a few special models with a screw back case design, such as the anti-magnetic Ingenieur and the diver-centric Aquatimer. Clearly with its evocative, upscale name IWC felt it only right to give the Yacht Club the capabilities for excellent water resistance that a screwed back would provide. And if it doesn’t have the screw down Oyster-style crown of the Rolex Datejust, it nonetheless has a very water resistant and somewhat oversized push-in “Fish” crown. In fact, the original depth rating of the steel Yacht Club was 10 atm or 100 meters, certainly up to the capabilities of some sailing and rum & tonics by the pier afterwards . The inner case also incorporated a unique design to cushion the movement within for extra shock absorption above and beyond the standard Incabloc protection.

The Yacht Club was the forerunner of an entire line of “Club” watches that IWC planned to pitch to different aspects of the luxury set, and new models included the smallish, cushion-shaped Golf Club and the oversized, integrated bracelet Polo Club . Neither of these latter two models was successful, perhaps due to the beginning of the quartz onslaught or perhaps just because of their idiosyncratic designs. As a result, the Golf and especially the Polo are quite difficult to find today and command a premium, although I have a sneaking suspicion that they are more fun to hunt than to own and wear. Likewise, IWC later introduced an octagonal Yacht Club II with integrated bracelet. Almost always found with quartz movements, the Yacht Club II is another acquired taste to say the least, but the rare specimens with automatic movements are still quite sought after and pricey. It should be noted that by the time of the Yacht Club II, IWC had moved to outsource their movements as a cost saving measure rather than continue to produce them in-house, although they did often utilize excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauches before dropping down to ETA movements for even more economy later on.

Catalogue image of automatic Yacht Club II models, ca. late 1970s

But one of the joys of the original Yacht Club is that it’s not such a scarce watch and it’s also rather more universally appealing than those other quirky relatives. It also won’t cost you an arm and a leg, about the same as a classic plexi crystal Datejust in fact (the Yacht Club also features a high domed plastic crystal for that unmistakable vintage look and feel but without cyclops magnifier). Which is not say that finding one that ticks all the boxes is de facto easy. As always, original dial condition is paramount in my book and you can expect to pay a small premium for a gray or especially the blue dial (make sure those date discs match!). Next, look for an unpolished case if possible, one that displays sharp original edges and factory original satin finishing, as well as its still-distinct  slim integrated polished bezel.  Additionally, the back should hopefully still show the outer serial number on the edge, which can sometimes be polished out or even worn away with time (that said, the SN is also duplicated inside the back, so not a major deal breaker).

Almost as important as the first two priorities in my opinion is to find the watch on its original signed bracelet. There are a couple of variations — “rice” grain, Oyster-style, etc — but the Yacht Club, with its distinctly tapered and somewhat short lugs, looks best on its bracelet with the specific flush fit 18mm end pieces and rather less streamlined on a strap. If you’re looking at a Yacht Club sans bracelet you should be paying under $2k. Variations of the Yacht Club also include a no-date version, as well as solid gold examples, which will usually only be found on a strap and are usually $3k+. As you might expect, matching original box & papers will tend to add value and are a nice bonus for the collector although, as the old saying goes, you can’t wear ’em.

For me, the standard ref. 1811 Yacht Club with date in steel hits all the high notes. It’s got that fantastic hacking, semi-quickset 25-jewel 8541B caliber ticking away accurately beneath the substantial case. It makes a great change of pace from other steel dress watches, with just enough presence and sporty elan to make it work with jeans or a suit. And while the “C”-shape case is not everyone’s cup of tea, I really like the lines and the way it presents on the wrist. It’s unusual enough to catch the eye and a pleasure to read the time, as well as a refreshingly distinctive design. Dare I say that it’s my personal cure for Datejust fatigue?

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  • Certified Pre-Owned
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  • Yacht Club Flyback Stainless Steel Automatic

Yacht Club Flyback Stainless Steel Automatic

  • Mint - Mint condition
  • Excellent - Like new – may have slight surface scratches
  • Very Good - May have any of the following: light scratches; slightly stretched bracelet; patina on dial, hands, or bezel
  • Circa 2020s
  • Gender Men's
  • Case Size 45 mm diameter
  • Movement Automatic
  • Features Date, Fly back Chronograph, Second Hand
  • Strap/Bracelet Material Stainless Steel
  • Item Number VIW02688
  • Manufacturer Reference # IW390702
  • Case Shape: Round
  • Case Thickness 14 mm
  • Crystal Sapphire
  • Dial Color Silver Gray
  • Dial Markers Arabic
  • Water Resistance 60 meters
  • Strap/Bracelet Bracelet

Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club Flyback Stainless Steel Automatic

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    Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

    The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is the first IWC timepiece featuring a newly developed tide indication.

    A complex interplay of gravitational and centrifugal forces between the earth, the moon and the sun causes the tides. On most of the earth's coasts, there are two high tides per day, always precisely 12 hours and 24 minutes apart. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide indicates the expected times for the next high and low water on a subdial at "6 o'clock". This is achieved by a reduction wheel train which translates the regular rhythm of the hours into the constantly shifting time sequence of high and low water. The double moon phase display at "12 o'clock" has been enhanced to show spring and neap tides and therefore also informs about the strength of the current tides. Spring tides, which bring particularly high water, occur at full moon and new moon. The 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands and 18-carat gold appliqués underscore the maritime character of this timepiece. The IWC-manufactured 82835 calibre features a Pellaton winding system. Fitted with ceramic components, it boasts a power reserve of 60 hours.

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    COMMENTS

    1. The Portugieser Collection

      The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference 3902) is the sportiest timepiece in a watch family steeped in tradition. Originally, the Yacht Club was first launched in 1967 and became one of the most successful IWC watches of the 20th century. IWC decided to integrate the "new" generation of Yacht Club models into the Portugieser family.

    2. Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

      Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. $13,500. Variation — Blue, Stainless steel case Size guide. Stainless steel case, Automatic winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue dial with luminescence, Stainless steel bracelet, Strap width 22.0 mm. Ships in 3-5 business days.

    3. IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph IW390211

      / Box&Paper / 2015 $ 8,292 + $286 for shipping. DE. IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. アイダブリューシー ポルトギーゼ IW390211 ... More Information About the IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph IW390211. Basic Info; Brand: IWC: Model: Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph: Reference number: IW390211: Movement: Automatic: Case ...

    4. IW390502-Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

      Features. Small hacking seconds. Sapphire glass, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides. Date display. Flyback function. Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o'clock. Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds.

    5. IWC Yacht Club

      A Robust Everyday Watch with Double Shock Protection. The International Watch Company (IWC) introduced the Yacht Club in 1967 under reference number 811 as a sporty alternative to the Ingenieur collection. An elegant barrel-shaped case defines this 36-mm stainless steel or yellow gold timepiece. IWC equips these watches with their automatic in ...

    6. Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club ...

      The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its ...

    7. A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

      Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn ...

    8. Watch Test: IWC Portuguese Yacht Club

      The Yacht Club is the first Portuguese model to be fitted with Caliber 89360, which IWC developed in-house and launched in 2007. This caliber offers one very appealing benefit: its elapsed-hours and elapsed-minutes counters are combined in a single subdial in the upper half of the dial. They can be read easily at a glance, as if you're ...

    9. Watch Collector's Notebook

      And it is the 8541B that you find in IWC's other implicit challenge to Rolex, the beautifully designed Yacht Club model. Debuting right at the dawn of the funky 1970s when the Swiss watch industry would go somewhat design mad chasing rapidly changing tastes and fashions, the Yacht Club manages to be at once cutting edge and traditional.

    10. An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

      IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. ... The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power ...

    11. IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Stahl Papiere Ref. IW390503

      IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Listing: $7,779 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph Stahl Papiere Ref. IW390503, Reference number IW390503; Steel; Automatic; Condition Very good; Year 2016; Watch with origina

    12. Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club Flyback (IW390702)

      Buy IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club Flyback (IW390702) Certified Authentic Pre-Owned watch from authorized retailer w/ 2-Yr warranty, Free Shipping. Stores; Assistance Call Us 800.348.3332. Schedule a Store Visit. Email Us. Tracking Information. Returns & Exchanges. Shipping & Delivery. Bucherer 1888 Credit Card. My Account My Bag.

    13. Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown"

      As part of its partnership with the British designer fashion label Orlebar Brown, IWC is releasing the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown". The stainless steel case with a diameter of 44 millimetres is completed by a marine-blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and a red chronograph seconds hand.

    14. IWC Yacht Club Chronograph IW390503

      HK. IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390503 Automatic. $ 6,507. Free shipping. JP. IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Chronograph,2018 full set IW390503 steel rubber chronograph mint. $ 8,593.

    15. IWC Yacht Club in white gold

      It is very interesting to learn about IWC and the Yacht Club. ... 13 Oct 2015, 10:13 p.m. 13 Oct 2015, 10:13 p.m. link Very nice pick-up; congratulations! Please do post some photos, it would be most appreciated. link Mr. Florian Wethmar. Apprentice 5 posts 20 Oct 2015, 8:56 a.m ...

    16. IWC Yacht Club 1 811A c. 1980

      IWC Yacht Club Inserat: 6.696 € IWC Yacht Club 1 811A c. 1980, Referenznummer 811A; Gelbgold; Automatik; Zustand Sehr gut; Jahr 1980; Standort: Großbritannien. Überspringen. Kennen Sie schon die Chrono24 App? Jetzt entdecken ! Suchen Sie in 601.200 Uhren aus 127 Ländern. Einloggen oder registrieren.

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      The capital of Tatarstan hosted sailing competitions of all-Russia scale for the first time. Reporting from the scene. They say nature has no bad weather. It's in«civilian» life. In the case of sailing, it depends on what you mean by bad«. Stillness is the number one problem in such competitions. The working wind of the participants of the Higher Division did not please the stage in Kazan ...

    18. IW390507-Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

      Features. Small hacking seconds. Sapphire glass, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides. Date display. Flyback function. Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o'clock. Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds.

    19. IWC Watch Test: WatchTime Reviews the IWC Portuguese Yacht Club

      The Yacht Club was IWC's most popular model of the late 1960s and 1970s. Today, enthusiasts of IWC Schaffhausen have a new model: The IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph, easily one of the sportiest IWC Portuguese models. ... (still paying HKD 30,000 for a Watch retailing at about 40% more. In June (2015) I had a beach holiday, and after ...

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    21. First BRICS Youth Summit kicks off in Kazan

      04July 2015 First BRICS Youth Summit kicks off in Kazan. Print. Share. Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan, will be hosting the first BRICS Youth Summit on 4-7 July. The summit will have around 300 participants. Following working sessions, the delegates will submit initiatives for experts' consideration on expanding cooperation ...

    22. Elegance joins forces with sportiness

      Since 2010, the Portugieser Yacht Club, an elegant sports watch designed for sailors, has combined timeless elegance with ruggedness and high-level water-resistance. With their filigree bezels and flat casing rings, the new 44-millimetre models have particularly elegant proportions. Ticking away inside is the IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with ...

    23. Kazan yacht club trainees will represent Tatarstan at the international

      Sevastopol International Cup will be held on October 3-6 and will welcome up to 27 crews from around the world.

    24. IW344001-Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

      Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. $34,100. Variation — Blue, 18 ct 5N gold Case Size guide. 18 ct 5N gold Case, Automatic winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue dial with luminescence, Blue rubber strap with textile inlay, Strap width 22.0 mm. Enquire now.